Former VWDieselParts.com Forum

All winter my temp gauge was running @ ~3/4. Now for the past few days in Chicago it has been 70-80*F and my gauge hasn't gone above 1/2 (the entire time of several hour trips). Is this normal? Has anyone else experienced this and if so why? I would think that it would be the exact opposite.

Ok, my line heaters are on and working, new pollak valve installed so I'm back on veg. again . Only problem is, even with the new line heaters, I'm still having the same problem !! So line heaters didn't help it. Time to play with the timing.

I eventually use GTI/GLI gas filled rear shocks. They work great!! I suppose anything would have been better than what I took off. They work shot!! I could compress them with my arms. My rear no longer sags; infact it is almost raised. Plus, traversing bumps is much improved! Now to do the front whe...

I eventually took surfcam's advice. I took out the reservoir disconnected the hoses from the nozzles and cleaned everything out. Man was there lots of crud in the reservoir!!! I also washed out the lines, cleared the nozzles out with a pin (with the lines off) and blew cleen water back through the n...

I went to attempt to adjust the timing of my IP for the first time yesterday and couldn't get the pump loose enough to turn it!! The Bently say loosen the rear support bolt and the fromt mounting plate bolt. I found those and loosened them, the one that you get to with the timing belt cover off thro...

Great idea about the switch + to the selenoid! I do have the heaters wired to a 30 amp relay actuated via a switch in the cabin and the + to the relay is straight to the battery. I don't know why I didn't think about breaking the switch connection with the key on/off. I actually haven't been running...

I recently set up my line heaters and have them wired to a relay/switch with + coming straight from the battery for now. I want them wired so they only work when the key is on though. I was thinking that I could splice the + in with the wire to the fuel stop selenoid (would be the easiest since it i...

I just changed my glow plugs recently. Upon doing so I rewired them like fatmobile suggested in the "sticky". I put the wires on and started threading the nuts on the 2 hard-to-get-to plugs behind the IP BEFORE I put them in. Made life MUCH easier. Just my 2¢.

Thank you very much for the info!

Thats 5/16 inside or outside diameter? If inside what is the outside? Thank you!

The nozzle on my passanger side is constantly being blocked. I will poke the hole with a pin to clear it up and it works fine. After a day or 2 it dosen't shoot at all. Just wondering if this happens to anyone else and what I can do about it? Are there replacemets or some cheap easy fix?

Does anyone know the inside/outside diameter of the metal fuel lines that run under the car? Thanx!

In between the Pollak and IP I put in a brass "T" with barbs on all sides. In the vertical barb I put in a stainless steel food prob that connects to a digital read out I attached to my dash board. Works quite well.

Has anyone ever done this? I was told they increase power a bit and require slightly less pressure to open. If they require less pressure to open, would there have to be any adjustments to the IP made?

The weird thing is before the injector swap there were NO problems; absolutely no difference between diesel and VO. The injectors had well over 100,000 miles on them so I changed them. I'm actually am in the process of putting injector line heaters on. I have two on now, putting the other 2 on this ...