Former VWDieselParts.com Forum

I just had a new clutch put on by a shop I trust about a month or 2 ago. It has been great for the most part. It grabs really well etc. except once or twice now after a lot of hard stop and go driving in first and second gear it will slip like it is needs replacing. This has only happened once or tw...

I agree with the electric future (even though the oil companies don't) over a "hydrogen economy." Like it was said, batteries aren't fuel, just a storage medium; so is H2. Since energy is always lost when converting the electric route will be much more efficient. For H2 they take electricy...

Hi there, I am looking for the breather hose off of the valve cover, single hose that splits into 2. Does anyone have one of these laying around or on a parts car they dont mind parting with. Mine is very dry rotted and oil blows out the cracks. I'm not sure what they go for used, so what ever you t...

Like I said previously, I'm adding a second battery in the trunk. I have 4 ga. to the starter and 1 ga. to the second battery. Just wondering, is there any extra strain on the alternator by having to charge 2 batteries? (both batteries are identical). If so how much; is it much to worry about?

I'm preparing for the winter....(thats why all these questions)
My rear defrosters seems quite underpowered/really slow compared to other cars i've owned. Is there anyway to boost the power to the rear defroster?

This battery isn't going to be isolated from the system when starting. I ended up getting 1 ga. wire since the wire to my starter is 4 ga.

actually exceeds the battery cabling size existing on the car.

In existing wire, are you talking alternator->battery?

WOW!!!! Thanks for the great responses! Isn't stranded wire essentially multiple lower gauge wire bound together? Or does the insulation in the way I was thinking about running it give it different properties? As for application, I plan on adding a second battery wired in parallel in my trunk an was...

If I combine 3 or 4 lengths of 10 ga wire as 1 fat wire, will it be a 2, 4, or 6 ga wire equivalent or does it not work like that? -sorry for my lack of general electrical knowledge.

Problem solved. Again, thanks for all the responses. I checked resistance @ the sensor when it was hot and I got between 95 and 100 ohms...I haven't checked when cold though. MPalm...I forgot I even had a test light...I always us my mulitmeter. Way easier. With the ignition off no power at glow plug...

Thanks for the response. Maybe I should explain my purpose. My glow plugs work fine in the normal opperating circumstances: turn on when engine is cold for fine starting and when the engine is warm they dont. I'm trying to put off an engine rebuilt or major repair. My engine sometimes takes signific...

High resistance or open connection is usually what tells the relay the engine is cold. Low resistance implies engine is warm

Well that makes sense....I plugged it back in a it worked just fine

Then how can I make the relay think the engine is cold?

Thanks everyone for your comments. I just unplugged it at the sensor before I got home to read this (what a coincidence, thanks mpalm). But.....when I got home and the engine was still HOT I turned off the car then turned the key to test. The glow plug light came back on but there was no tell tale s...

OK so I've finally gotten around to this. I was checking out the relay area of the fuse panel and I'm not sure how to proceed. Here is the relay: http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n139/wewantutopia/JettaGlowPlugRelay.jpg Here is the wires that I assume are for the glow plug relay: http://i111.photo...

never mind...I found it

http://www.4crawler.com/Diesel/GlowPlug.shtml

if I took the wire off of the L blade and ran it to the 1st glow plug, is that how I would enable the led to let me when the glow plugs are actually cycling?