Former VWDieselParts.com Forum

jumping in here with a stud-related question: I have a hydraulic 1.6 I need to rebuild this summer or fall. The head bolts were originally TTY one-use bolts. If I switch to studs, how do I torque those, and do I need a different head gasket than the TTY bolts use? hope this isn't too far off topic f...

do the 12mm hydraulic engines have head bolt trouble as well? As long as I have to rebuild my engine, should I be considering studs as well?

Too far for me to drive right now, but here's a bunch of diesel parts in Bremerton on craigslist

http://seattle.craigslist.org/kit/pts/686003804.html

With the mk 1 rabbits and jettas, we used to pull the engines with the tranny on a floor jack through the bottom of the car, but that does require being able to jack the car up pretty high. At that shop we had a big hoist so it was easy. The 85 and up cars have that crossmember in there so I would p...

no, I haven't found one yet. And even when I do find one, I still have to pull the lower end and rebuild it as well, since one piston was totally ruined and it scratched up the cylinder wall as well.

I figure even doing the assembly myself, I am looking at about $1400 or so in machine work and parts.

there's this not far from you...

http://seattle.craigslist.org/oly/pts/675921458.html

That is a bummer! I know what it feels like, having put a new german head on my jetta only to have it drop a valve head 2000 miles later and wipe out the bottom end as well. Now I need to do the whole dang engine, and find another hydraulic head again... But I do intend to get this car on the road a...

I've been saying for a couple of years that my dream vehicle would be a subaru forester with a turbodiesel. I thought I had heard that this would be offered in the US in 2010, but I could be wrong. Not that I have the kind of money it would take anyway....

I had to make a special tool to hold the cam pulley while I undid the nut holding it to the cam. http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2104/2270762510_2df083881f.jpg Other than that, it was a pretty straightforward job, except for the fact that 2000 miles later, my supposedly brand new German head dropped ...

does anyone here bother with balancing the pistons and the rods? Or have the crank dynamically balanced?

I too am now looking at rebuilding my lower end as well as searching for a new head.... again.

I've seen machine shops do wonders, but I don't know about this...

Piston to valve contact doesn't usually cause the heads of the valves to break off. Usually just kinda mashes the valve stem, shatters the lifters and snaps the cam. I imagine the head fell off the valve and that is what caused the timing belt not the other way around, but it's hard telling. Regard...

UPDATE: Pulled the cam today, and popped out the follower. It was fine and the valve was stuck in the down position. Pulled the head, and found the valve head had broken off and is jammed up in behind the valve seat. Head all beat up, piston all beat up, cylinder wall scored. So, it looks like I pro...

Alright so I will definately spend the money for the arp head bolts, but does anyone have any info about the other 5 questions? 1. Are the 1.6 turbo diesel valves different and should I use those instead of the N/A due to increased heat? from what I've read, yes, the turbo valves are sodium filled ...

I would just go ahead and spend the dough for the better head bolts. $135 is pocket change compared to rebuilding your engine later.

the cummins engine in my truck can take up near 50 pounds of boost, but only with special head treatment and way better bolts or even studs.