Former VWDieselParts.com Forum

Well, I'm happy to chip-in $ to keep the lights on...

How much is the SSL/year?
How much is hosting?
What hardware will be sufficient to run the latest SW?


Anybody else wanna go in on it?

Trumper wrote: ↑Sat May 18, 2019 4:34 pm ... That was pretty-much the OLNY solution ever offered here. ...

Here's another solution... learn how to spell-check.

I know it's been pretty slow here, but the spam problem got so outta hand on the GTD board it looked like this board would be the only good alternative to the vortex. Thanks to Jack and y'all for making this a decent place. And, maybe there is a chance another host can take over the board, if Jack w...

When you refer to the engine bay connector, you are referring to the two wire connector located near the battery, correct? Yes. Do you have a wire on the alternator connected to the W terminal? I was hoping there would be a reading significantly different from what my car presented, so we seem to b...

I have tested running my 86 TD @ 1200rpm with the blue wire ON and with loads: High-beams, fog lights and cabin fan on high: Battery posts: 13.83V Alternator body to battery positive post: 13.86V Engine block to battery positive post: 13.86V D+ terminal to battery negative post : 14.14V Also measure...

IIRC, the small red+black wire is the tach/cruise wire. ( "W" terminal) There are no fuses in the alternator excitation path. There is a harness connector in the engine bay. The alternator ground is through the engine>negative cable. Those all must be in good contact. Well, we can say that...

I'd disconnect the blue wire from the alternator, get it up to voltage with the jumper, then take the jumper off and see if it continues to charge or not (with no wires on the d+ (exciter) terminal). I'll wager if the charging is good with the blue wire off, the blue wire has a short to ground or so...

Loose time belt? A fellow VW rabbit owner/ enthusiast payed a visit and thought my timing belt was to loose and might be causing the problems. I was thinking the opposite. A too tight belt can cause a leak at the input shaft... but usually on a worn IP bushing. Air in the little injector lines is e...

Most likely the blue exciter wire has an internal fracture right by its terminal on the alternator. It's a common issue due to the vibration of the diesel. The fracture is often not visible because the blue insulation can remain intact. To test the system, run the engine and put a clip-lead or other...

Anyone have any other links on how to replace this o-ring? Here's how I did mine: https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-Rsg0w4p37hY/UVqOk7OofwI/AAAAAAAABIA/0INh7mEp-oY/s800/baggie1_med.jpg I loosen the retaining screws while keeping the IP nose-down to retain the parts. I take two screws out completel...

I was hillbilly tuning to advance the pump and the pump started leaking. 1 mm adjustments. 1mm nudges measured at the edge of the IP flange? It appears to be leaking from from the bottom where the silver injector pump output 4 port case (that connects the hardlines to the injectors)meets the darker...

Yeah, that stuff seems to harden over time and can break up. I imagine at that point it can let moisture get under and cause trouble.

The dark nozzle looks like it got cooked. It's important to ensure that new or reformed heat shields are installed each time the injectors are removed/replaced. Timing must be reset each time the pump is changed or altered. You're getting close... once the air is purged from the fuel lines, it will ...

I will occasionally recommend Bar's Leaks fancy Head Gasket Repair (~$30/bottle).

But not for a car I like, or a car I plan to keep.

I put a head gasket on my 1.6 Eco-Turbo when it was overheating... it was worth the effort.

More like constant resistance where it should have turned easier. I think it could be a few things and probably in the engine. Even if whatever it is causes no other problems, the amount of energy needed to turn the engine probably explains the hard starts. For the resistance check, you might pull ...