Former VWDieselParts.com Forum

i put a booster pump in the heater circuit of my water cooled Westy, gasoline to try to boost heat output. if the diesel Westy coolant system is as poor as the gas, it is smart to redesign it. one issue is those coolant pumps are high volume, low pressure. so the long run up to the front causes enou...

a standard garden hose, running strong on city water pressure is about 5 gpm. t'ain't no way there's 20-40 gpm thru the heater core but possibly the coolant system at high rpm. *maybe* 2 gpm thru the heater core from what i've seen. i put a simple 3/4" T in my heater hose circuit to feed the ru...

have you replaced the $2 starter bushing? that can make an enormous difference in cranking speed. since your starters (2) aren't turning at times, replace that bushing if you haven't done so.

-dan

yes, it sounds like the timing is too retarded. does it run better warm? cold, the engines like more advance but it could smooth out once warm. but there can still be too little advance to run decent when warm. there is much information within the archives on adjusting timing, either by gauge or by ...

if your sump held 12 quarts and you put on 3,000 miles a week, i'd do an analysis to extend the change interval. when $20 gets you new oil, a Mann filter, and 3-5K miles, the value is there.

but both ways are acceptable. just personal preference.

-dan

you're in Winnipeg (Howdy, neighbor)... you need all you can get! i went down from a 3 notch to a 2 notch because i was able to measure the piston projection. it'll WORK with a 3 notch. it'll work BETTER if you can go lower but ONLY do so if you can measure things up. if you don't have the tools to ...

every 5k miles with dino diesel oil, not synthetic. but i drive 500 miles a week so it adds up fast. i have essentially insignificant oil consumption on this 350k mile motor with a re-ring at 250k. and yeah, it's black after the first day.

-dan

just as an aside, thread locking compounds are isocyanurates... forms of super glue. they require moisture to cure and contact with free water immediately changes their state from liquid to solid, but this is not a graceful cure and ruins their bonding properties.

-dan

no no no... the IP was just the LAST leak (for now). fixed the crankcase oil leaks with rubber gaskets on the oil pan, valve cover, seals, orings, and opening the crankcase breathers up.

-dan

that's a good point... i was thinking i would have to move the belt on the crank but it makes total sense to do the correction right at the pump! i need about 1 tooth back. hey, now that my belt tension is right, the belt rides centered on the pulleys.... it was riding flush with the outside edge. -...

my whining noise was a too tight timing belt... took the cover off after about 70 miles and i could see the aluminum imprint of the intermediate shaft pulley. loosened it up to about 67 degrees belt rotation from the 45 i'd previously tightened to and all was quiet. 45 degrees with my thumb and inde...

ack. i mean 45 degrees. it twists up to a 45 degree angle!

-dan

having just got done tuning my smoke screw, it absolutely affects idle speed. i had to turn it out and increase idle speed with each adjustment.

-dan

today, well yesterday and today i swapped out my 91 ADA IP for an old low hours 107A that i had resealed. my ADA pump was leaking thru the throttle shaft o-ring, the only o-ring i didn't change out when i had resealed it a couple years ago. i also wanted to get rid of the ADA mechanism for better ac...

i just made a pair of bushing from the plastic caps that are included in the IP seal kits. there's a cap that fits just inside the hole for the cable lock and so i cut off the end of the cap, stuck it thru from the inside, and the heated the polypropylene material and it melted over nicely effective...