Former VWDieselParts.com Forum

Well only broke one, and it was just the head so I was able to save the housing by using heat and vicegrips on it.
It's all back together with SS bolts M6x20 and plenty of antiseize!

Thanks all! I pulled the whole housing today with no issue, however the 4 long bolts look like they should be replaced too. I'm pulling the small ones after lunch; I see what looks like could be antisieze!! or maybe just wishful thinking... I'll pick up all new stainless bolts from tacoma screw tomo...

Anyone know the size/ length/ pitch of the bolts for the water pump on a 1.6?
I'd like to replace them with SS to avoid future headaches.

Any reason I should keep them aluminum?

That's where my air filter is located- in the passenger side D pillar.
I've got a Fram tube style filter; its about 8" round and 12" long. Works well and seems to stay dry.

Ok bad sender unit
assumed it was working and it bit me in the butt! came across an extra gauge and sender I had and figured it was the one thing I hadn't tested...

New one is in and working well!

I agree the 20 sec is way too fast; that's what tipped me off something was wrong. I cleaned the hell out of the pan and the old gasket, pulled the screen to clean it. The pan is on so I can't pull the pump just yet. I'll do a filter and oil change monday and see where that lands me. I only use Mann...

The gasket sealant I wiped up was from the old gasket; red RTV type. I used "the right stuff" sealant with the new gasket.
I cleaned the screen because the bently said to do so.

I should say the sender is on the head; not sure if that makes much difference.
Thanks

Ok so since replacing the oil pan gasket, I've been getting some odd pressure readings. First at start up I'll see it @90-110 (normal) then in about 10sec it will be reading 40-50, and about 10sec later reading 20psi (which was my normal idle pressure at temperature). Usualy it would take about 2-3m...

Ken at north westies here in Seattle mentioned VW moved from paper to metal crush style, not sure when or why but I have a new one waiting. The leak also could be from the cover that is next to the oil cooler. Not sure what it is but it's shaped like a shield and has 2 Allen bolts holding it on. As ...

Well I re used about 2/3 of the old oil and didn't get a chance to pull the cooler bracket off so I still have the old filter. I think I'll wait till next oil change to get at the gasket between the block and cooler. Don't change the seal between the oil cooler and the engine any reason why not to c...

Ok long story short I have to drop my oil pan today. I'm replacing the pan gasket obviously and though I should do the oil cooler o-ring and the gasket from the block to the cooler. I just changed the oil 2 months ago so I plan on reusing it and the oil filter, however I just relized I probably shou...

Do you not have one of those telescopic magnets inside a screwdriver? Masking tape around it's edge will improve it's mobility. Poke it down the drain, in the head, or: Yup tried it for about 15min of fishing down the oil passage, I also tried heat shrinking a neodymium mag to the end of some 10awg...

Well gaskets are the way and I'll just re-use the oil as recommended. How did the stud get thrown through the block? that one has me wondering.... I tried the big ass magnet from under the pan but I can't hear it moving. I'm about 99% sure it's in the pan, I heard it slide along the passage and then...

Well I used the blue lock-tite becasue the studs have no shoulder on them and I don't want them coming out when I take the nuts off. During the proses I did however manage to drop a stud down into the oil pan, after slipping on wet pavement while leaning into the back of the van.... Head gash and fi...

This is a noob question for sure; but I can think of reasons for why you would want to use blue lock tite when installing studs. However I'm hoping they are put in with anti-size so that replacing my broken ones isn't too hard.
Or just nothing at all?