Former VWDieselParts.com Forum

Sorry for response delay - i thought i had sent this out, but must not have confirmed the submission... The W terminal was connected to the red wire like usual. I tested the continuity between that and the connector plug and that wire is good. The fan was running during my readings - so my numbers i...

Okay I got a minute to get out there do some readings - With a medium push on the throttle (i don't have a tachometer, so my rpms are just a guess), and as much of a load as i could put on (high beams, high blower, radio, cabin lights), i got the following readings: With the blue exciter wire ON: Al...

Some other readings i took that may or may not be meaningful - With only the blue wire attached (no jumper), and the exciter wire engaged (I start the car and give it some revs to get the battery light to turn off) i get the following readings: Alternator Positive terminal to engine block - 14.25 Ba...

Tyler your test is correct - I removed the blue wire, started with the jumper attached, and had a voltage of up to 14.25ish. With high rpms the voltage remained the same. When i removed the jumper (with no blue wire attached), voltage stayed the same. But with increased rpms the voltage went down to...

The lights definitely get brighter with high RPMs after start-up. At the same time the battery light turns off. I'll run your test, Tyler. I've had issues with water leaks around my fusebox for years, the driver's side floor mats always get damp in the rainy season, and various efforts to stop it al...

Right sorry, forgot a zero in there. Meant to say "goes down to about 14.02 or 14.05ish." The only time it ever gets past 14.1 is when the jumper is connected, when it gets to 14.22 and stays there. I'll check that blue wire on the alternator end and also see where it goes on the other end...

Hello all, Thanks for all the help with my Jetta over the years, it's still my daily driver and running (mostly) great. I have had an ongoing mystery for several years now that i'm trying once again to solve. I thought i'd throw it to you all to see if fresh eyes gave any new clues. Here goes, i'll ...

Got the bolts back in - turns out i just had to keep jacking the tranny up a bit further before it would stop raising the whole chassis with it. Installed the new starter and everything is running great! I'm still hoping to install some more grounds, as well as a voltage gauge, but for now and catch...

Thanks - I don't even yet know the first thing about putting in an oil pressure gauge, I'm sure I'll be back to bother you all for help when I get there

Thanks again for the help, I'll let you know what I find with the new starter and battery.

I suppose I can wait and troubleshoot which is which when I install the new battery (warranty exchange) and starter later tonight. Right now I don't even have enough power in the battery to see if the idiot light comes on. My hope is it's the starter alone causing my trouble. The blue wire splice lo...

The small red/black wire does connect to the alt, just outside of the picture, to a tab connection with a W marked under it.

I'll check bentley again too to see what i can find.

I see. Yes the idiot light functions fine.

Just so i'm not creating more problems - is the lower, smaller bolt with the blue wire a ground wire? It is the wire i'm getting a low ohm reading with the neg battery post.

In addition, now i've found myself in an interesting situation i didn't expect - when i removed the starter the learned that the starter bolts are also the front engine mount bolts... and now with the engine settled a little and the pressure off the engine mount, there is a solid inch of travel betw...

I think may have found the problem - bad corrosion with no connection on a ohm reading on the positive cable direct from battery to starter. The whole post on the starter is badly corroded underneath the nuts, so i may just replace the whole starter as it came with the car and has a junkyard marker ...