Former VWDieselParts.com Forum

thanks mtran, i think ive seen that from vwdiesel.net, is it still in faqs? i saw something that a bug had gotten to it,,im only resealing pump, i need to look for removal, and resealing pump, this pump has more than 750k mi on it may be getting up to 850k, i donno, clock stopped ~@700k, as it ends ...

How's the fuel pull test going? yaa, the any testing wont help me any more,,the mainshaft seal blew, i have diesel around the ip pulley, will have to see if im going to reseal pump, getting it off is going to be the hardest part, as such things as the cold-start-pull doesnt come right off the pump,...

this is the rim(s), you used to see them on gti a lot, dont think they have enough meat for a mk3 jetta

[img]http://s375.photobucket.com/user/dnatdt ... sort=1&o=0[/img] trying to get a photo, from photo bucket, what am i doing wrong?

I put the injectors on backwards, did a cold compression test, took a look at glow plugs in their natural habitat. Glow plug system good. injectors producing good looking spray, still can see no air in lines. Compression looks to be the problem, something like 300 200 100 300, cold, of course, with...

possible its your 1st time replacing timing belt? did you buy car used? taking a 1/4 inch punch; i ground mine flat, as it has a protrusion, take punch and flat against the pulley/sprocket, use hole in tin, use plastic hammer, and rapp quickly a couple of times.(pulley is soft). if you do end up usi...

the 1 guy had some 5spoke for sale; i dont think the 5 spoke, looks like the type ud see on gti back then; i dont think that 5spoke had enough to hold up a mk3 jetta. i got a guy w/audi rims, look ok, getting them.

do any al(aluminum) rims fit a jetta3? (14"). or is it too heavy for some rims; i have an offer for 5 spoke rims and the spoke isnt very big; i want to make sure the rims will hold the extra weight, before i buy.

if the filter is up isnt the flange reversed, and you have the oil flow reversed too, is the brass screw part of a line? on top of the flange, with filter pointing down, you have prob 2 fittings, 1 for oil pressure sensor, and 1 if you have a turbo for oil line. other than getting flange straightene...

in both of my mks i have a mark on the Outside of the pulley (1 tooth), corresponds with a mark about 11oclock on timing tin, right there the pump pin slips in.
not too say, i cannt remember seeing too much if any of pump bracket as tin covers it up.

huh, that mark , for me its on the outside of the pulley, 1 tooth has a notch and line it up with mark on tin and thats supposed to be #1. on the other forum 1 guy had suggested this,, loosen #1 inj line @inj, before this have crank well before tdc, turn key on; when doing this and key is on engine ...

i figure the best thing first is to see exactly where you timing is at now; put it to tdc, check pump is at tdc, and then the cam will either be at #1tdc, or #4. thats if the pump has 1 hole for pin, if it has 2, well you ll have to do more to figure it out.

if you have cam tool and pump lock it should start like that; id say glow plugs is next to start; getting pump right on is much better, for many reasons. but it definitely should start, run a jumper to glow plugs, and try,,if that works you have to troubleshoot gps, if not you still may need New gps.

i just got done with putting back together an a/c system, the 2 wires going to compressor, for the clutch, arent very big, and the one has to be ground, so where is all this current going for the clutch? i was under the impression the clutch took a good amount of current, i mean you have clutch, rad...

i had, back in the 80s and 90s a couple of t/1's that had generators or swap-overs from gen to alt. so i know about voltage drop. none of those cars had a/c, that seems a lot of voltage drop for an a/c, and 12.7 would seem the minimum charge, i ll see when i get a new alt. i do believe the change up...