Former VWDieselParts.com Forum

X2 on the timing advance. <snip> I had to actually move the belt a tooth to get it advanced enough to start when I swapped in an old pump while resealing the original. It rattled pretty bad but started up quickly. Thanks for that tip, bscutt. I was thinking about doing just that, but the fact that ...

Update from the last two days.

1. Advanced the IP as much as possible: no start.
2. Advanced the IP further by skipping a sprocket on the ip pulley.
3. Heated the block for 1.5 hours after doing this and engine almost started.

Will try to move it one more sprocket tonight and try again.

Fatmobile wrote:

avocado wrote:FWIW, I'm not seeing any bubbles in the clear lines, and they are filled with fuel.

Which fuel lines are clear on your machine?

From the tank to the fuel filter, fuel filter to IP, IP outlet to tank. So: everything but the metal lines and the lines between the injectors.

Ok!

Floored it and was persistent in trying to start it and after 15 minutes I almost got it to catch. White smoke out the tailpipe and all.

Next step: charge up the battery and try to get the block heater working.

Thanks Volks!

triple check the timing. If the IP is full of fuel per '82's suggestion and glow plugs work, it could be that the timing moved even though things were locked. With the cold weather we are having in the evenings and mornings it's going to be a little cranky (no pun intended) starting up from scratch...

Did you refill the injector pump after disconnecting any of the fuel inlet lines? You may want to rig up a bottle to make sure the IP is fed with a good fuel supply to possibly remove any air in the line issues. I didn't. I'll look into that. FWIW, I'm not seeing any bubbles in the clear lines, and...

I know that starting problems fill the archives, but having done a bit of searching and research I'm just looking for a reality check before I move forward. Engine: 1.6 TD with new head gasket Symptom: turns over quickly but doesn't even try to catch. Engine ran before disassembly, although compress...

The fitting could be SAE threads, not metric. You can take your oil plug and the fitting to a good hardware store that has the placard of bolts or nuts that you can screw yours into to know what size and thread it is and then get the correct fitting to work for your solution at that same store. Tru...

M14 x 1.5 (same as a wheel stud IIRC) :mrgreen: Hrm. That makes sense, but is slightly disconcerting. I bought a VDO oil temp sender from another VW vendor that's reportedly M14x1.5, but while it starts to thread into my oil pan, it starts binding before it gets too far in. Visual inspection of the...

bscutt wrote:Any luck yet?

Got the head back on and torqued down. Gonna put the the intake and exhaust manifolds back on tonight, fill 'er up with oil and coolant, and see if she starts!

Anyone know the thread pitch on an oil pan drain plug for a 1984 Jetta TD? It looks like an m14x1.0 or m14x1.25...

Anyone?

Thanks bscutt!

I got the head back on last night, I just have to put the intake and the turbo back on tonight. Hopefully it'll all come together.

(and I have AC engines in spades, but thanks for the tip!)

Yeah, I'm in no way close to getting rid of it, but I am close to putting an air-cooled gas engine back in it - if only for the sake of expediency as I may have to move soon. I'm going to go out to the garage and futz with it again tonight now that I've had some time to ease away from frustration an...

bscutt wrote:if you used spray copper sealer I would just give it a couple of new coats of that. It this turning into the project from hell?

Thanks bscutt.

And, yeah, kinda.

Ok, so I put a new head gasket on. Unfortunately, one of the bolts somehow did not line up or something was in one of the bolt holes on the head. So off it comes again. I'm going to try to re-use my new headgasket, but it's covered in copper-gasket coat. See photo below. I assume I should remove all...