Former VWDieselParts.com Forum

In my other post: http://www.vwdieselparts.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=11835 I described a similar misfire when I let off the accelerator, and I seem to have fixed it. Put a clear hose on your pump OUT line, so you can see if any air is getting in. I got 1/4" clear polyurethane line from ...

Well I swapped out the pump output line with a clear one. Then I put a clear line between the tank and filter. And I cut off the old frayed end of the factory input line to get a better seal at the filter. Also replaced the leaky injector return line. This way I could see exactly where the bubbles w...

Its definitely not compression, its a complete rebuild with 475 PSI. Rebored, new pistons/rings, New valves, guides, seals, etc. New injector nozzles. The only thing I have not replaced on this engine is the pump. I dont want this to run like an old diesel, I want to run like new, and the only thing...

Too much air. Ive always wondered if those bubbles were enough to cause problems. The strange thing is that they have always been there. The previous engine had the same bubbles & injector pump and none of the smoke issues. I drove it like that for 50,000 miles without any problems. I dont know...

These two statements say the opposite thing. I think we may be saying the same thing... advanced = less smoke When its cold it definitely smokes more (white smoke) when the CS lever is pushed in (not advanced). When I say the CS lever acts as it should, I mean it advances timing and rpms go up. Yes...

I pop tested the injectors before installing. None leaked before breaking pressure. The new nozzles have about 1000 miles on them. I set the timing at 0.97 or 0.98 IIRC. Cold start lever acts like should. I was going to do some hilbilly timing but I'm hesitant to advance the timing because it sounds...

Engine is totally rebuilt with new pistons/rings, valves/guides, etc. I put new nozzles in the injectors as well. Great, even compression. It starts and runs good, but Im trying to track down this final issue. When cold starting it runs a bit rough with a small amount of whitish smoke. If I let it i...

Got access to a welder? You could weld an allen stub into the bolt head, or just weld a nut onto the head then use a socket to get the bolt out. If you dont have a welder, try a small propane torch and vice grips clamped as hard you can get them on there. This isnt a great way to do it, but sometime...

A quick test you can do is to jack the front wheels off the ground, support the car on jack stands. Put it in gear, start the engine with clutch pedal depressed. If the clutch is dragging, the wheels will turn even when the clutch pedal is depressed. If the clutch is working, the wheels will come to...

Why is everyone suggesting a clutch problem? If it were the the clutch, the problem would be in all gears. The clutch does the exact same thing regardless of what gear you're selecting This sounds more like a linkage or synchro issue....but the fact that it only happens when running sort of eliminat...

When I did my engine rebuild I put a new german thermostat in. I tested it in boiling water before installing, but it is sticking. Engine heats up from cold as normal, but if Im on the highway and go down a long hill it will cool way down and heat output drops. Temp gauge will then stay in that cold...

Yes, I know I could rewire it to another circuit, but I would like to fix the problem, not work around it. I have amps and subs and all soldered connections so i dont want to disturb or splice anything. What I'm wondering is whether the problem is usually in the switch (electrical portion) or the ke...

Dont cut the Master cylinder rod, Even if it does fix the problem, you would be treating the symptom, not the disease. The rod did not grow longer, why would you cut it? Something else is worn out. They are fixed length and not adjustable on late models. If you cut it, be prepared to replace it in t...

You said "when the engine warms up"... a simple test would be to start a cold engine, and let it come up to full temp without driving it and without touching the brakes. I would bet that its not the engine producing the heat, but the heat is from friction either in the brakes or wheel bear...

I have the engine/tranny out right now, and Im wondering if it is worth it to open the tranny. I have a crunchy 2nd gear shift, but only when you shift fast . If I pause for half a second before going into 2nd, allowing engine to slow down a bit, it shifts fine. I have been driving it like this for ...