Former VWDieselParts.com Forum

Thanks Joat. That's the answer I was looking for. I know the piston oil squirters open at 20 psi and I have 20 psi at around 2600rpm so it's in the safe zone. It's surprising how thin the oil gets at operating temperature. I'm running Shell Rotella 15 40 with a little less than a quart of Lucas. I'v...

I put a new high volume oil pump on and it helped a little. Another major problem caused by the ground up plastic splash guard attached to the oil pick-up tube was that no oil went to the KKK turbo and it ruined the seals, basically destroying the turbo. It was blowing oil out the exhaust creating a...

Good question! How to you get the nozzle leakoff back to the tank?

So, an update from today's work to resolve the oil pressure problem, with one question. I pulled the oil pan to install a new larger flow pump and the existing pump screen was plugged with all the chewed up plastic pump pickup splash shield. Somehow I didn't get it clipped on right when I did the ri...

O.K., good!
I just don't want to ignore something that would be obvious to an experienced eye.

That clears it up for me.
Thanks for the explanations.

I'm just planning on what engine and components to replace the low oil pressure engine currently in my car.

The flashing red warning light and buzzer sound is distracting me from my new accurately working speedometer and nicely backlit instrument cluster (new bulbs). I can see the fuel and temp gauges on the right side of the cluster at night now!

Pump number is 068-130-110H. There's definitely a yellow dot on the timing advance piston cover screw. Does that count as "on the timing advance cover"?

This is the pump on the engine that will replace the engine currently in my Jetta that has the low oil pressure.

I just put some clear plastic motorcycle fuel line on the injector return lines and there's very little diesel going through them. After starting the engine the fuel was not visible in the lines for about 5 minutes. Is this normal? When I pulled the return line off the out-bolt there was a good flow...

So, after doing my re-ring job I installed a new (used) instrument cluster with a repaired odometer and better working gauges. Much to my surprise the new cluster had a good working oil pressure warning light. I had never checked the oil pressure and did so once I saw the light! Below is the data wi...

The yellow dot pump seems to have a faster increase of internal pressure to rpm than most other pumps if not all. As I don't believe they were ever issued in the UK, I've never seen one. It is felt that it is 'Sportier :lol: There is a graph I made somewhere of 1.6TD internal pump pressures, and th...

Right, but what does the yellow dot signify? Some internal difference in the pump? Designation that a Bosch tech serviced it? Something else? I'm curious since I have one pump with yellow paint on various adjustable components and one without. Or is my pump with yellow paint on the removable/adjusta...

What's the definition of "yellow dot" as used in referencing the rebuilt pumps.

My guess means it was rebuilt at Bosch, but I don't want to keep guessing.

I would be willing to put together a dictionary of terminology for the Mark II 1.6's, but I'm not fluent in the language just yet.

I'm interested. I can't do it right now but keep me in mind if you still have them in 1 month. I'm going to start work on another engine and want to put studs on it.

Another ARP Head Stud Question Per this link to Summit Racing's page for ARP's part number 204-4706: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ARP-204-4706/ there's 14 long studs 4 shorter and 16 short studs. Has anyone purchased this? Why 14 head studs? What are the 4 shorter ones for? I can see that there...