Former VWDieselParts.com Forum

Just to weigh in here: - yup, it's always a really good idea to confirm your oil pressures... you'll sleep much better at night when you know that it's the smoke detector that's at fault and not a raging fire in the basement - yup, you shouldn't get a buzzer at anything under 2000 RPM... and if you ...

The little black box has an internal capacitor as part of the noise suppression circuity, so normal for you to see a tiny spark as it is being connected or disconnected.

If it works or if it is blown makes no different to alternator operation... you'd just notice more alternator whine on your radio.

kevin g wrote:.should I get a NEW crank bolt?

It's a single-use bolt, so yup.

1985 n/a no a/c 1.6 engine. so the alternator was putting out 11.9 votlts with the car running. so i pulled the voltage regulator out and sure enough the brushes were worn down to nothing. so i got a new bosch one and put it in and the car still puts out 11.9 volts. thats weird. another thing is no...

I've seen posts about this, in the past, but now that I'm having this problem, I can't seem to find them. The pressure looks good; I'd like to keep the idiot light & buzzer; anyone find particular wiring problems related to this issue? '85 Golf; '82 1.6L n.a. It may be wiring, or it may be that...

We'd need the link to know what specific one you're talking about... unless it's vendor "prothe".

If it is, google will tell you all you need to know.

Hmmmm.... too bad... "good" doesn't tell you much.

The two switches are part of the "upshift light" yellow arrow in the middle of the cluster.

What compression numbers did you read?

What breaking pressure did your injectors pop to?

Yup, that almost certainly a gasser flywheel... so as long as it was installed correctly and you used the "0" you are probably OK. If you were 180 out the engine would run but extremely roughly with a lot of smoke and very little power. You could try advancing the timing a bit... 1mm is a ...

I don't have a manual that covers AAZ Passats but did a bit more digging... if the late-model Passat alternator was the precursor to the TDI alternator (and that sure looks like a TDI connector) then Pin 1 is D+ and Pin 2 is likely W (on a TDI it's a n/c, since TDIs get their RPM signal from the cra...

Hmmm... I would have said TDI....but the Passat is usually a generation ahead on some things. The stud on the left is B+ to the battery. The two terminals in the upper connector are W and D+... here's a labeled picture of the more standard AAZ alternator but I don't think that the same connector as ...

What car/engine/year/etc ???

Without a boost signal the LDA is inactive anyways... no reason to physically remove it unless you don't have turbo injector lines with the bend that clears the LDA.

For all general intents a turbo pump with no boost signal is essentially an NA pump.

99% of the time it's a linkage problem.. either you didn't quite get the pin at the bottom of the governor relay lever firmly into the small hole in the control collar or the throttle lever is disconnected from the governor spring assembly. Happens often... if you pull the lid off the pump you shoul...

It's gonna light up just fine... nice work!