Former VWDieselParts.com Forum

Probably a good idea to scare up the oil cooler as well... particularly since your block won't have oil squirters.

It's the very essence of careful workmanship and looks much more complicated than it is: - take your time - make notes if you need to - be surgically clean - assembly is the exact reverse of disassembly Oh, and the groove in the plunger goes in the same direction as the pin on the cam plate. DONE li...

Just to be really clear... you can blip the throttle over 2500 RPM and the light still stays on... you have to be actively driving for 5 minutes or so... working thru the gears.. until the light goes out?

90 is the proverbial gasser number and 45 is the proverbial diesel number. :wink: Having said that, I'm not sure that small difference in tension would let it nicely skip a tooth... but stranger things have happened. It does sound like it happened when you revved the engine. If you're convinced that...

The base heater itself should be adaptable to any engine with an oil cooler circuit and a bit of space to mount the heater down below the majority of the block. You might have to fab a bit of a mounting bracket and figure out your own 5/8" heater hose.. not hard. The beauty of the kit itself is...

That's the one...works a treat and you get heat to defrost windows immediately.

It installs in the oil cooler coolant circuit so works properly with VW's bypass system.

TDI blocks do not have frost plugs, so it is technically not possible to install a traditional block heater.

Coolant heaters that install in the oil cooler loop work very very well... dunno if Jack stock 'em.

One note... the plunger and head are a matched set, machined together, so you'll want to replace 'em as a set.

As I understand it the shims are related to the calibration of the delivery valve.. just like in the injectors. Also like the injectors they'll be the specific thickness needed in conjunction with each individual spring, individual machining characteristics of the parts, etc. Bosch used many differe...

Depending on how cold it is the in-rush current on a cold glow plug can be at least 15 amps... so a 15A fuse may or may not last. No reason not to go 20 or even 30A to prevent nuisance faults. The fuse is there to protect the wiring, and 10ga wiring will handle at least 30 amps. Garden tractor solen...

Well the wedge isn't operated by the e-brake, its supposed to fall under normal braking conditions automatically. It does... but only when applying brakes as you back up... this separates the shoes and the wedge then drops down to take up any clearance due to wear. Can't remember if this is in the ...

damac wrote:i think tranny fluid coated my clutch when i topped the fluid off

Where did you "top off" the fluid?

There are a couple of seals on the tranny that can go as well. :cry: Engine oil and tranny oil smell different.. and taste different.. :lol: but regardless of which seal it is the tranny has to come out... and while it's out I'd recommend you replace all the seals: - engine oil seal - tranny input s...

Yeah, any time I pull a tranny I do both flange seals, the input shaft seal, the pushrod bushing and seal, and the throwout bearing. Cheap and easy to do... when the tranny's on the ground at least. Some folks say "if it ain't broke don't fix it"... but I don't have that kind of luck. :wink: