Former VWDieselParts.com Forum

yes they can stick pretty well even though the nut is loose. I always jiggle them. Glad it's all good now.

Seems odd. Did you crank with the pedal floored? It may take a while to get fuel out to all the lines if they ran totally dry.

Recheck the timing meticulously. if the belt wasn't tensioned properly it may have jumped one tooth somewhere. I had that happen on one of mine years ago, fortunately no valve damage and easily resolved. you could also have a fule restriction problem and the water separator on MK2s is a common probl...

the 81 A/C has no tensioner pulley between the compressor and the alternator. It's probably why that belt is such a problem and will never stay tight, coupled with the wear of the pivot area on the bracket that the alternator mounts to. However mine seems to work fine if once it wears into the "...

Just to be sure check for voltage at each glow plug. It's always possible to have a weak, corroded, or loose connection at a crimp connector. It's a long shot but a good thing to eliminate. Also make sure the block has a good ground connection to the battery. At 40+ amps current draw a bad connectio...

Nice! I had one go bad due to the fusebox getting soaked and corroding the relay, ended up replacing the fusebox and relay to cure it. Was lucky to find a fusebox on ebay for cheap in good shape. That was on my 80 Rabbit, haven't had any electrical problems on my 82 (fortunately!)

Try pouring water into the rain tray area while someone is looking inside (or vice versa). Pull the carpet away from the firewall first. Not sure on the MKII how the A/C & Fan plenum seals to the rain tray area but mine (Mk1 Rabbit) leaks between that plenum and the metal tray it bolts to - Afte...

check the X relay, it kils power to the blower, wipers, radio when cranking. it may be going bad or corroded

I threaded in some 5/16 x 1 screws into the hole on mine - these were not machine thread they were more like sheet metal or lag bolt type threads, pretty pronounced threads. Then a little tapping, turning, and/or pulling seems to break them loose. The screws I had were hex head (something like 1/2 o...

there are conductive epoxies for circuit repair too, not sure how good the conductivity is but worth checking around on the internet. We used to use indium solder on some of our electronic assemblies where we have similar temperature issues but I don't recall if that was higher or lower temp solder....

I personally would not do another GC but here in the Washington DC area going slow is not an option unless you have a death wish. It will probably work fine for you if most of your driving is at low speeds. Do not dispose of your 5 speed linkage pieces in the event that some day you run across a dea...

GC will work that was the stock 4 speed in the early Rabbit diesels. However at 70 mph you will be deaf from the engine noise. I literally threw away the GC I took out of my 80 Rabbit when I put in the 5 speed. won't do that again.

15 at speed is really low in my experience but I have never had a gauge on my VWs. 5 at idle seems extremely low and would surely trigger a light. IN the old days I would say main bearings but that's on old american V8s so hard to say. I'm sure someone else on here has more experience with specific ...

Ok found this one, this is much better and includes flange sizes

http://www.a2resource.com/eandt/ratios.html

And this one, scroll down a bit
http://www.brokevw.com/020ratios.html

Found this link, there are still some sources of info out there. Also forgot to mention you want the 90mm flanges, not the 100mm and I suspect the cabrios will be the larger ones. These are the flanges on the outputs of the differential that the axles bolt up to. In the chart below you will see the ...