Former VWDieselParts.com Forum

sounds like the first TD had the GP wire not connected to the sensor ( they glow all the time till the relay timer kicks out ... about 2 minutes)

reason for stripping is the cog belt doesn't slip like a V belt ... the engine pulses are very strong and beat the $%^& out of the sprocket locating pin..... loss of power and black smoke ... until it slips too much and the pistons kiss the valves.

the newer slot takes the abuse much better.

just run the extra wire as Hagar said with a door bell switch ( NON ILLUMINATED!) and leave the original blue wire to dash hooked up. push to excite the alt ... light should go out and stay out unless the belt breaks or alt fails. you and substitute any old car "points condenser" for the b...

put the old harness back in place .... **** ignition coil power goes to the IP solenoid. look up the wiring diagram for the glow plug relay (or do it manually) alternator wires go to alternator oil to oil sensors starter to starter tape up loose wires and tuck aside out of way turn key and drive away

look up under the driver's side dash , look for a big ring with a bunch of BROWN wires connected to it ... look for any loose wires.. then wiggle each of them to get a good connection again. water sometimes drips onto the ring and corrodes the connections to GROUND... pulling the dash ... get codes ...

12 miles ... just a hop skip and a jump ... drove home , 75 miles in winter ( #2 line broke) , pulled the turbo boost line ... slipped the line over the broken line (+ duct tape) and dumped it on the ground away from the rubber rad hoses ( no suitable catch can ) ... now I carry a spare set of lines...

sounds more like a small fuel leak .....allows air into system and drains the pump back to the tank ... pump has to reprime each day after sitting .... look for ANY fuel leaking around the small black hoses at the injectors and ip pump ( first place to look ) if none are found, look at the connectio...

thanks to all for the responses ... I'll try it this weekend if the weather permits

could someone please explain to me how to move the IP, to time the 1.6 while the engine is running.... is there a tool to hold the pump once the bolts are loose ( and to hold the timing position after the engine is shut down? )

top off tranny fluid first, test for slippage... band adjustment at front of tranny ( behind throttle/kickdown) is the next place to go, adjust and drive... if it still slips its toast and needs a rebuild.... and yes the starters are expensive , rare and hard to change... up under the exhaust behind...

4 th pump mounting bolt under HI press end of pump ? tweaks the pump a bit and keeps things more in alignment ....

I have stuffed a 1000 CCA battery into my MKII .. it hangs out and touches the side of the Power steering res..... but as long as the tie down strap holds the battery in place, your battery cables are long enough and the battery posts don't touch anything metal ... you're good to go.

55 and older by the minute...

hagar wrote:
Will one of you please tell me what to call hagars fuel entered at the intake filter. ? is it injection or what ?.

s.

Fuel augmentation... a la hagar


BTW hagar, I saw my first type 166 today, in person.... just missing the gun and pick axe .... completely restored.

buy 2 more lower spring perches, get some pipe that fits over the shock and cut 2 rings about 1 1/2 inches tall, put the lower perch on,then the spring, then the second perch(reversed), the ring and then the old top spring holder... compress slightly and put the retainer nut on... install the shock ...