Former VWDieselParts.com Forum

I'd feed the filter from a clean bottle, and send the return from the IP back to the bottle. If there are still bubbles between the filter and the IP, it's likely the filter is plugged.

Turning the top of the IP toward the block will advance.

Haha... My story is similar. Bought a gasser Rabbit for my GF that I later married, and after a long string of VWs & Audis and ~20yrs of being a couple we split up and she bought a new TDI wagon. 11 yrs later, we are still close and I buy her wagon (with 230K on the dial) after she buys a 2016 T...

It's not too hard. No need for lift. No need to take out the radiator. Easier to get to stuff with the 91 big-bumper off. On my small-bumper 86, I remove: grilles w delicate plastic snaps :( unplug headlight bulbs remove headlights in their buckets, or remove with core support unplug horns, if in co...

For troubleshooting, I advocate using "known-good" factors whenever possible. Those can be removed from the list of likely contributors to the problem.

Timing is quite critical - it doesn't need to be off by much to cause issues. I'd time it by the book and go from there.

Any smoke? Color?

I suspect the gauge went bad... pretty hard to imagine 0psi unless the rings are missing or a valve is stuck open.

How bad is the smoke? With those numbers it should be filling the whole neighborhood.

Did the oily injector have crankcase oil or just fuel on it?

It's also common to put a dab of RTV where the gasket meets the rubber seals at each end. Have you got the thick metal strips that run along the studs? If not, the nuts will bottom on the shoulder of the studs, and not clamp the cover properly. The upgrade is to use the G60 gasket with shoulderless ...

Pushrods have been known to wear through the disk, but not usually so soon. That is usually caused by a bad t-o bearing or binding by the pushrod.

It looks kinda dry in the end of the tranny... did you drain it down to take the cap off?

I'd open the green cap and get a look-see. For a clutch with that much wear (the old one), it is possible the throw-out bearing is also gone. I'd get another one... They don't cost much and should be changed with the clutch. The fluid loss should not make that much difference right away, but by all ...

Any smoke?

The original AC setup used the compressor with a double sheave pulley: the outboard sheave lines up with the crank and water pump, the inner sheave only drives the alternator with the use of a tensioner pulley. I'd skip the serpentine setup for now and go stock. It works fine when the engine is runn...

Rrich22 wrote: ↑Thu Jul 27, 2017 9:20 pm Is the fuel screw the one with metal collar wrapped around it?

Yep.

Do you mean the largest diameter oring, or the one on the "three sided" insert?

How far apart did you take it apart?

Did the top come off? I'd take the full-load screw all the way out, then put it back in.
Did the accelerator levers come off? Id try moving the levers one spline over.

The torque difference is simple: the thread pitch of the nuts for the studs is different than the pitch of the threads that go into the block.

A shallower pitch will create more clamping force for the same torque.