Former VWDieselParts.com Forum

Hagar wrote: The most surprising discovery I made was the amazing " Plasticity" of the block alloy. (not simple cast Iron). Yes all metals will yield to pressure. .This one without cracking.. SO ? the prep work on deck becomes complex.. We can't push the metal down around bolt holes so we ...

Land of the free? Don't think so...

How's that gun ownership thing working out for y'all?

YOU may not think it's the land of the free, but most of US do. YMMV.

I'll pay my own way, thank you; it's preferable to having the gov't in my business.

Wait 'till November.

I confess to rolling up to a stop light and wondering, "wonder who's brakes are overheating" only to realize I had been driving around with the P-brake 1/2 set and wondering why the Caddy was a bit more gutless than usual. Reminds me of towing a 78 gasser to my shop a year ago last Hallow...

I call it a handbrake or parking brake, depending on location. I use it for parking when I need to get out of the car/truck with the engine running- like when I'm opening a gate. I'd use it if I had a brake failure or engine runaway, but as it's the least effective brake on the car, I don't consider...

One thing I like to do is drain the core by removing both hoses at the cowl and connecting a wet/dry vacuum to one of the hoses to the core. that way I don't get any coolant in the car.

I've always just given mine a whack with a rubber or rawhide mallet, but several here have used a steering wheel puller with good success. You have to use some big 'ol washers on the back side of the pulley and run bolts through the pulley holes, but it works, I've read.

Try poking a length of welding rod into the dipstick hole to see if you can get oil on it. If you can, there might be something wrong with the dipstick and/or tube. If not, I'd take the pan off to see why the welding rod and dipstick cant touch oil.

so will the TT one shake my teeth and bulbs out, or is it streetable? I've got about 40K on mine and it still works fine. It didn't notice any excessive vibration after I installed it; in fact it fixed most of the vibration I was having with the old broken mount. I didn't fill the holes with silico...

I had a similar symtom on my 83 and it turned out that the CV joint had a ball that was binding up from rust, and the ball joint was a tiny bit loose allowing the front end to move around on that side.
Does it get worse when you go around corners?

Very nice. What kind of rims are those?
Nice car, too.

This would mean that there are two main brake lines running under the chassis feeding the rear wheels? I think if you look a little closer, there's only one main line running under the car feeding both rear wheels. This situation isn't so. It's possible that you didn't understand my post, as I omit...

Take the calipers off and make sure the pads are installed correctly. If they aren't. the pads will probably be bent. I helped a mechanic on an 83 recently with the same problem, and the pads weren't in right. New pads, correctly installed, solved it. In no way ought you think I'm putting down you m...

While you're at it, you might consider changing the passenger side motor mount. You'll have the pump off, and it's just a few more bolts to get the bracket off. Of course, you'll be wise to change the timing belt as well, and then the engine front seals........ It never ends sometimes. :D But seriou...

George, There are lots of threads describing the headgasket replacement and timing procedures. Try a search first, and then ask questions about specifics. In addition, please feel free to buy your parts from Jack, the sponsor of this forum. Any question you can't get an answer to here (can't imagine...

Front struts are of unknown age- I think this is my opportunity to put taller struts in. If you want to lift the front a couple inches, install a set of springs and spring seats from an 85-92 Golf, and don't go the cheapie route on struts. It'll need realigning, but the clearance (if your looking f...