Former VWDieselParts.com Forum

tawney - I took your specifications and made my own dial indicator tool similar to yours. And it worked great. Like I said, I went to Lowes, bought the pipes for about $7 then went to Harbor Freights and bought the dial indicator and die threading kit for about $30. So $37 total with a die, much bet...

No more Hill Billy timing for me, I am off to Harbor Freight and Lowes after work tomorrow.
Hopefully, I can buy the dies and dial indicator at Harbor Freight and the pipes at Lowes.

Pictures of the final product??

Just remember the timing belt 45 degree if very subjective. With that said, rotate the engine clockwise and then check the tension. Without doing this, it is typical (atleast what I found) that the tesion will be different. When you shut the engine off, things coast and then shift back a little. You...

I just took the heater unit apart myself just minutes ago. To seal everything up, I use duct tape. It worked, but last year when I tape it up, I did not take the whole heating unit out. There is a crack on the back side that let cold air though. What ever you use, take the time to take the whole hea...

Sorry, its all gone. The guy came and got it back in mid August.

The engine is out of an 82 Rabbit. I am pretty sure that engine was stock. My dad bought that Rabbit back in 89 for $1,200 with some 60,000 miles on it. It just dwaned on me that when the engine was switched out, because I have power steering on this Jetta and the rabbit did not, he may have took th...

The allens that hold the belt pulley were so darn tight, I just took the whole thing off as a unit, so I never separated the cogged pulley and the belt pulley. I was either going to break a wrench or strip the hex out. I do see the nipple where they match up so I know that is correct. The bolt is ce...

I finally finshed replacing the crankshaft key and got the timing back in line. The crank pulley still wobbles a little more that I like. Is there any trick to getting it centered on the shaft? I want to make sure that I do not have to do this again if possible.

Yep, I owe Libbybapa a beer. He was dead on. I decided to take the crank pulley off myself. I have been a little tight on money lately and did not want to pay $200 or whatever it would cost to have it done and wait a week for the mechanic to finally work on my car. I figured I could do it without ha...

Ok, as I reviewed the posts to make sure I did not miss any of your comments, I went back out to check to see if the crankshaft pulley was wobbling very much, and it was! So, I guess that really sovles it. The key was wearing and retarding my timing which makes perfect sense, but just not enough for...

Well, I heeded 82vdub's advice and I advanced the IP pulley one tooth. I had to loosen the timing belt to do that and then I realized that I do not have the two prong device to tighten the idler. I improvised and took two allen wrenches in oposite direction and I was able to get the belt tight. I ti...

I will check that out tonight. I can't imagine the the IP could jump what seems like two teeth and stay running, but maybe it can. I did not think that there was that much tolerance in the pump timing for the engine to still run. If it did jump a tooth, I will have to tighten up the belt. It had be ...

Well, I guess I should stop driving it then until I can get it fixed. I did not realize that half moon key could wear like that, never had it happen before. I guess the key has not worn enough to cause the valves to hit the pistons yet. I had to move the pump a lot so that half moon key is probably ...

I will have to look at the Bently to see where the pump pulley should be. I have not timed the engine completely, all I have ever done is tune the pump from time to time. I do not think that the belt jump a tooth since the change was gradual. If it was all of a sudden, then I would suspect that, but...