Former VWDieselParts.com Forum

Why on earth would you buying another gasket? :mrgreen: Well, that's a good question. I put a whole bunch of copper gasket spray on both sides of the gasket, and when I pulled the head back off, it stuck to both the block and the head, so I just figure it got munged. I also thought I had read somet...

bscutt wrote:use a magnet...

Alas, they were in there too good to get out with a magnet. I made the mistake of screwing them down three or four threads worth.

I got the scratch gently banged out and the surface nice and even. I then coated the surface with copper gasket spray: two coats, and let it get good and tacky... Only to find I didn't leave enough length on the guide bolts to pull them out once the head was on. Ugh. Guess I'm buying yet another hea...

Yes to the 95 to 105, except for the last few revisits I have just gone to the uniform 95 ftlb; after all these bolts are getting old :lol: In the future I will not enter the plastic range at all, and be satisfied with 105lbft for the gasket melding/moulding at the start, and drop it down to the 95...

Quantum-man wrote:Nearly; aluminium...

Basically, yes. Making the gasket flex into the gap more than shear, though I think the plastic flow surpasses the depth of the scratch in any event. If the gouge has actually raised banks, then light tapping with a small clean hammer would ease the banks back down and raise the river bed slightly,...

Ah another secret out, I have in another experiment had this engine ticking over at a measured 250 rpm :shock:A little shaky though. Realistically, I would like to drop it down to 500rpm, that way I think I could get pure city driving up from the current 46 to 48mpg [imp] up to 55 to 60. Hagar is r...

Thanks Volks! Sounds like I have a tough decision to make. OK here's my judgement: From your other picture I've deduced that it is #1 cylinder. Of the three areas you have outlined, only the middle one need concern you. Only the line going to the water's edge specifically. If you look at a gasket yo...

There is a shop down the street from one of my offices that does machine work for the local VW speed shop. I think it's Custom Auto Machine on Terminal Rd in Newington. They did my clutch flywheel re-machine for me and a G60 Corrado head for my son. yeah I figured you either got inundated with work...

Crap. I managed to scratch the head mating surface trying to get the head lined up.* :cry: Guess I have to decide whether to take it to a machine shop to be skimmed or to do it myself with a flat table and sand paper, ala Quantum Man... http://www.vwdieselparts.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=1077...

libbybapa wrote:I have too much going on right now to get to it. I'll keep you posted if I do, tho.

Please do.

Also: do you have a link to those photos?

TylerDurden wrote:Spray is more expensive, but much easier. The tube stuff flash dries, so it is a chore to smear lots of little bits of it on the surfaces.

Dig it. I ended up going with Copper spray, as that's what the FLAPS had. Just about to go out and give it a go...

As an aside, Bob, I still want to bring the bus down to show it to you, but...it just hasn't been on the road due to these types of issues. Unfortunately...

Tom does this mean the bus blew the head gasket? Yup, it did. That said, I'm pretty sure it was close to going the whole time, as it would hit a runaway condition (temp-wise) after hitting 205degF, and start boiling over at 210-215degF. I probably should have tried just torquing the head down first...

What hylomar did you guys use? Is there a particular one or do auto parts stores just sell one type? Also: I nicked a corner of the HG surface when trying to get the head into position (looks like I need to take the exhaust manifold off). It's nicked just enough to slightly scratch the red bead of s...