Former VWDieselParts.com Forum

If they'll go out the bottom, I'd go that way. If not, then a metal rod on the bottom of each piston from the bottom. Knock them enough to the rod ends near the end of the bores and then reassess your tactic.

It's something of an odd swap. Not sure many here have done it. Maybe try www.vwdiesel.net The only problem I could foresee would be if you had a VR6 Jetta body. You'd have to get all the linkage to work with the 020 transmission. Wiring should be easy. You'll only need power to the fuel stop, glow ...

you can look up the part numbers at:

www.wagenstad.com

Look up golf, then the year, then electrical and body parts.

They won't be the same numbers as USA Golf, since the USA version used different bulb holders and lenses.

IIRC, the early Rabbit Carburated box is similar enough, or the same and will work. Should be easier to find. Ask Fatmobile. I think he did that on one of his cars.

Here's the hydraulic front mount: Part Number: 191 199 279 C http://i182.photobucket.com/albums/x82/tochtli83/191199279C.jpg Here's the bonded front mount: Part Number: 191 199 279 E http://i182.photobucket.com/albums/x82/tochtli83/191199279EMY.jpg Here's the bracket to use with either of the mounts...

They probably sold you the mount for a Later German MK2. There are 2 different styles. Some early MK2 cars had a front mount which has a metal center with a bonded rubber and an outer metal ring (should look like the REAR mount on a MK2). Most of the later and German-made MK2 cars used a "hydra...

I just use red grease. It holds up well.

I did put a bit of sealant on the water pump and it has the chance to plug any small hole. I hope its something that simple. That's your problem. I'm 99.9% certain that you plugged one of the small coolant lines. It's preventing circulation, and you can bet that the water is boiling out of the over...

While I'm thinking about the tranny - my shifter works fine but is clanky - I can hear metal on metal when i shift, not loud enough that i hear it while driving, but at an idle it's pretty clear. Is that something I should worry about? Can I lube anything in there without opening up the transmissio...

I really have no idea how you could have done that, unless the notch in the piston was not aligned with the pin on the back side of the camplate (the green-circled pin in that pic I posted). But even that doesn't make much sense. I've never seen that before. I think you need to buy the piston and di...

There is supposed to be a bracket with a eye on one end and a threaded rod on the other end. The threaded rod goes thru the pump and bracket, and is secured on the belt-side with a tick washer and a locking nut (so it doesn't loosen). The eye end goes to one of the upper bolts and prevents the brack...

Couple of thoughts: 1) What do you mean by exactly 1/2 turn? 180 degrees or what? 2) From the way you describe it, I would suspect that some idiot put the flywheel on incorrectly on the pressure plate. Or, you're using the wrong reference point on the flywheel. I've seen flywheels off their correct ...

As noted above: the cracks in the block usually occur on the rear (firewall side) 2 corner bolt holes. If they're cracked, it's game over obviously. As for pressure buildup: if you get it back together and running properly, be sure to check the overflow tank with the cap off and the car running. The...

I couldn't reference which way the cam plate sat in relation to the shaft when I was pulling it apart.... Hope that doesn't come back to bite me in the end! ! There is a ROUND pin on the backside of the camplate. It needs to align with the keyway on the mainshaft. You can use the outer keyway on th...

I've never done any metallurgical testing on them, so this is just presumption. I've seen many high-mile German blocks with visible cross-hatching from the honing, and virtually no ridge. I've never seen that on a Brazilian block: with mileage from 100K to 300K (if they make it that far). My guess i...