Former VWDieselParts.com Forum

Regarding checking the linkage, you might look at this topic here on the forum:
viewtopic.php?t=9738

If you're so lucky that the issue really is just a linkage problem, then it's a relatively easy fix.

I wouldn't swap the pump; too much work for an uncertain result. Actually I would probably just ignore this too-much-marble-sound, but if you're determined to find out where the marbles are coming from, here are a couple ideas. First, I would just retard the timing a little. Next, if you've got two ...

Regarding the excessive marble noise when cold, one interesting thing to try would be to put a pressure gauge on the pump to see what the internal pump pressure is when cold compared to when warm. The viscosity of the fuel would be greater when cold which could result in higher internal pressure, ma...

I agree that it sounds like a bad ignition switch. 82vdub's solution could give you the answer; also, you could run a wire from the fuel stop solenoid to a test light in the car. That way you would be certain when the solenoid is getting juice and when it isn't.

If you use the search function at the top of the page, you'll find a lot about power mods and tachometer installations. I think you'll need more than just an exhaust mod for noticeable power increase. A modified injection pump is one way; install a turbo is another. As far as tachs go, if your alter...

If other circuits are affecting the fuel cut-off solenoid, I would suspect a bad ground, or maybe a bad ignition switch. The fuel cut-off wire will not blow a fuse easily; in fact I'm not sure how it is fused, but I know by experience that even if you short it out against the frame or block, it won'...

If it's leaking behind the sprocket, it's the main seal, and I agree with 82vdub: best to do it now while you've already got the belt off. Getting the pump out is pretty easy, but you'll need something with which to pull the pump sprocket off of the shaft. The topic, "List your homemade VW spec...

Glad you still have your hands. I've never worked on the Quantum before, but on the Rabbit, the thermostat is so easy to change, I would try it first. My experience with the old waterpumps is that the little bolts like to sieze-up in the aluminum waterpump housing, twist off in there, and generally ...

Part of the answer to your question has to do with how you use the vehicle, and what balance of economy, reliability, and performance you're looking for. My own balance of those issues puts power/performance at the end of the list, so when I work on a pump, I'm generally just trying to get it to per...

So, if the clutch on the pulley is centrifugal, it could be the clutch, it could still be the water pump, it could be the Tstat. I would start with whichever is easiest/cheapest to change first: probably the Tstat, even though the power steering bracket is in the way. When you get this thing figured...

82vdub: Harry's got a crank pulley with three 'sheaves', of which the one to the water pump is spinning freely, and the result is the water pump isn't spinning as it should. Someone out there has the explanation to this odd crank pulley with the one free-wheelin' sheave, but I'll bet either way, you...

Okay, I'm changing my vote; it's probably not the Tstat. If no water is streaming into the coolant reservoir, something's up with that pulley, but I don't know what. Does it have some kind of temperature activated clutch? If it turns freely, there must be some kind of bearings that allow it to spin....

I'm with Fatmobile: it's got to be the thermostat, unless you recently dumped a lot of stop leak in the radiator.

Steve

You didn't accidentaly knock the wire loose going to the stop solenoid on the injection pump?

I wouldn't open the injectors just to look at them; you won't be able to see anything anyway. New nozzles every 60K miles is generally a good idea; but don't buy cheap ones. Starting: glow plugs, timing, fuel, starting rpm, compression. That's all there is; seems like you've commented on all but sta...