Former VWDieselParts.com Forum

Just out of curiosity, what kinda oil filter are you running on that car?

I've had the issue he had as well. I had an injector that hadn't been fired open in a while, and it was either sticking open or air bound. It sounded really bad, like a jackhammer. But in your case, it doesn't sound like that, at least to me. You can isolate whether or not its injectors using a mech...

Well, thats why they have a warranty. Sometimes unforseen issues crop up. Something is definitely up and I do not think it is fuel related at all. That sounds entirely mechanical. How did you end up fixing your clutch? You said you weren't able to lift the lever up by hand which isn't abnormal, but ...

I listened to your video. To me, it doesn't sound fuel related at all. Who did your rebuild and what did it entail? It sounds mechanical, like a bad rod bearing or something. I know thats not what you want to hear, but. The only other thing I can think of is, the issue with your clutch. What did you...

Hm, good point. I had missed that. I never concerned myself with fuel leaving the pump. But, then again I never really had any major issue with a fuel system on any of my diesels other than my fathers 98 TDI which turned out to be a crappy fuel filter that wasn't sealing correctly. I'll reread from ...

The shaft seal on the front of the pump can let air leak in causing all sorts of issues. Try running it on a bottle of fuel separate from your cars fuel system. Hang a bottle up above the IP and let it gravity feed into the pump, plum an inlet and return line into the bottle and see what happens. Th...

Not on a permanent basis. That splash guard keeps oil from the valve cover getting sucked into the air intake and causing your engine to "run away". Its a very nice thing to have in there. But, if you want to keep it out while diagnosing, it'll work fine without it for the time being. It w...

Here's what I would do. Pop the top timing belt cover off, set the engine at TDC on Flywheel. Remove valve cover, check lobes 1 and 2 and 10 and 2, and slot parallel with flat surface of head. If all that looks good, your engine timing (Pistons to valves) is dead on. Then, check IP. The notch in the...

test

test post

You should be able to find a draw by this (I have never tested this, but was advised by a friend who is an ASE Master Mechanic). Disconnect the negative battery cable. Insert a test light between the negative cable and negative post (alligator clip on cable, test light probe on negative terminal) If...