Former VWDieselParts.com Forum

very similar ... just the gassers don't have the W terminal for the tach ...


some have different offset belt pulleys ( for different belt setups ) they put out the same voltage and amps as the diesel tach for the 1.6.

I've had luck compressing rings with a big gear clamp (similar to rad hose clamps, worm gear clamps, etc...)and a piece of thin brass stock wrapped around the rings and piston.... put a couple of dings in the bottom edge of the brass to stop it from slipping into the cylinder with the piston.

also check for ANY leaks around the little interconnecting lines between the injectors....

the new tensioner should be on the other side of the belt ( towards the firewall possibly the same alternator mounting bolt) . right now it sees the "full load" on the alternator. On the other side it would only take up slack in the belt and see very little strain on the bearing.

old 1.5 1.6 1.7 and 1.8 8 valve (non turbo gassers) are non interference

the 1.8 16 Valve gassers are interference

all 2.0 gassers and up are interference

all diesels are interference.

no need for the cooler unless you pull long hills or keep the pedal to the metal all the time...... just additional cooling for the oil under harsh conditions.... think of of it as an added safety buffer zone to keep the oil thicker.

tachs have a capacitor in series with the line coming in ... passes AC pulses, not the voltages.

the electronic TDI needs the timing reset each time the belt AND/OR water pump are changed.... then you must use a VAG com to check the computer timing and re-adjust as necessary.... runs about 800-1000 in a shop.

If you use a 1.6 NA or 1.6 turbo diesel they bolt right in , 1 wire from your old coil to the IP stop solenoid, wire up the alt and ADD a relay to power the glow plugs. 1.9 engines came with 2 styles of injection pumps. totally mechanical = same as above electronically controlled = you have to pull ...

remove regulator, look inside alt for a finger of metal that contacts the back of the regulator ... clean this well ( pencil eraser and sand paper ) till its shiny. then re install the regulator. attach a wire to the alt case and then to the engine ( make a good ground ) then start the car and rev i...

one last tip....

if the GP are toast, break out a hair dryer on HIGH heat.....aim it at the pump / lines and head for 30 minutes or so. then try to start the beast with every thing good and hot.

pull #4 GP and test it ... (booster cable to - batt and GP base, wire from top of GP to + Batt ... should get red hot) if it's not red hot, change the GP's... if you can't get the proper GP relay, leave it out for now.... add an additional #8 or 10 gauge wire from #4 GP so that it reaches the + on t...

with the injectors out, you can use the starter to spin the engine and blow the excess oil out safely. crazy ? yeh, just like 99% of the rest of us on this board. ( it's nice to have company ) Gauge: find a fitting to screw into the injector or glow plug hole, attach to a length of hose. put a T fit...

this is an on going problem with VW .... they used various pulleys and spacers over the years on the same cars depending on the belt configuration. This has led to simply swapping a new alternator when the old one goes and not checking the belt alignment. yes you can use washers under the pulley to ...

can't hurt to try the "old penetrating oil in the cylinder " trick ... let it sit for a couple of hours. yes, spin the engine with the plugs out to clear the remaining oil before starting it. leak down test can show if the rings are sealing all along the cylinder bore, or if its just loose...