Former VWDieselParts.com Forum

pull the oil filler cap, put the blowing end of a shop vac and duct tape it to the hole, block off any other tubes and dip stick ... turn on vac ( to pressurize the engine ) .... slip under car and look for oil around crank seal / int seal / pan seal, etc.... It may show the culprit and is safe at l...

try a diesel pump purge treatment ( could just be one dirty injector )

also try draining the filter for water if you have one (or change it)

Just possibilities....

take a pair of mole grips ( vise bits etc) grind the jaws to make a male and female mold .... grind top jaw at 90 degrees to cheek in the middle, the bottom jaw at 90 to the cheek at the tip... makes a dimple in the jaws that fit into each other ... then crimp copper in a couple of places to give a ...

pull the plugs and squirt in some penetrating oil , let sit for a couple of hours . then try to move by hand ( or 4th gear and tow slowly )

bullet holes ? naw , they're special aerodynamic dimples (like golf balls) to improve straight line stability at high speeds, reduce the drag co-efficient and increase laminar flow. With the added benefit of increasing flow through ventilation.

there is also a wire from the starter solenoid that drops the glow plug relay out when the engine is cranking (smaller load for the battery)

they were also known for fast wear in the front end steering section.

the open snap ring goes on the end of the shaft before you shove it into the outer joint (which is hidden after assembly) It holds the joint together...

the other clip is for another application.

the starter also bolts behind the block and between the exhaust pipe and the tranny ....... B*tch of a place to get into .... and the starters cook from the exhaust heat..... and turn in the opposite direction from the regular starter....

forgive me if I missed it, but don't forget a new seal between the oil cooler and oil flange on the block ... they tend to get brittle and leak .....

>My writing is confused ? yes due to my illness. I am a few miles from the end. (Hart failure)<


maybe a wv diesel transplant will fit ?
good for another 800,000 km or 60 years warranty.

best wishes and may thanks for your wisdom and wit.

>sounds confusing, but combustion temps. dropping means exhaust temps. rising. hotter egt's=incomplete combustion as the fuel has not burned all the way in this instance.< the TDI burns very lean and even leaner at idle ... uses just enough fuel to do its job and produces very little excess heat, so...

veg has better lube than regular diesel today... even at higher temps. feel your IP anytime its been running after a long run and it will be hot (and any fuel in it) Lower viscosity increases the strain on your IP & timing belt ( look at anyone trying to start a car on a cold day with thick engi...

3 key items for veg oil running

1 clean oil (and no water)
2 hot oil ( over 160 F )
3 start AND stop on diesel (easy cold starts and no coking the injectors)

0 F at night and 30 F during the day around here with snow on the ground,so still too cold to slide under and change the tranny axle seal that's been leaking since November.

maybe all that hot air from the politicians will warm things up around here soon