Former VWDieselParts.com Forum

I removed them with a quarter inch drive ratchet, long extension, and swivel joint. Without removing the pump. It was tricky, but it can be done.

Good job. Reading these posts as of late have made me miss working on my own but where I am, the salt has long eaten the bodys and even the junky ones people want a fortune.

When I did this on my 90 Jetta, I opted for the smaller 65 amp alternator with the correct pulley offset, and shimmed the adjuster bracket myself. Worked fairly well, worst problem I had was finding quality v-belts. I didn't have any issues with clearance though, which was nice, and I didn't need th...

I found green corrosion that had formed inside the insulator of the wire on mine, that was causing a problem starting. I ran 15w40 year round in mine, but thats because I was cheap and it was like 12 bucks a gallon vs synthetic. I replaced a lot of connections on mine on the starter solenoid, batter...

Those had a boot? I converted a 91 from P/S to manual and had a new rack installed, and the mechanic ribbed a manual steering shaft and ujoint off a junk car in his yard, and I don't recall a boot being on that assembly. Only boots I knew of for sure were the ones covering the innter tie rod.

My guess is on belt skipping a tooth too. Its possible it skipped on the injection pump, which could cause these problems. As previously indicated, set crankshaft at TDC, verify camshaft is at TDC, and dot on IP pulley lines up with mark on IP bracket.

I'm assuming you mean 1.6 Turbo Diesel, not TDI. The part number you listed is the VW part number (I believe). There should be a bosch part number on it. I believe that pump will have a bosch part number ending in 109H. Any reputable diesel fuel injection shop should be able to locate the seals you ...

Sounds like its air bound to me, but I've also seen a faulty radiator cause similar symptoms. I believe I parked mine on a slight uphill incline, and ran it with the cap off and squeezed the upper radiator hose several times to burp the air out of it, then recapped, drove it down the road, brought i...

Well, if you run injectors that open at higher pressures, you'd have to advance the timing some to make up the difference. I doubt there would be any real ill effects.

I wouldn't expect a performance gain though. As to fuel economy, there is one way to find out.... do it.

The Giles pump is worth every penny. I had one on my 91 Jetta. It was amazing.

Replace the glow plugs, thats a given. That car should have a slightly different cold start lever setup which is 2 detents. High idle, and high idle + advance. White smoke is unburnt diesel fuel, replacing the glow plugs should help with that. If the cold start lever on the pump is going all the way...

You could dingleball hone it, Roadkill style.

For what its worth, I had one with around 300k on it and had a tremendous amount of blowby.. so much so that it blew the intermediate shaft oil seal out and emptied the base while going down the road. Oil pressure light came on, whole side of car soaked in motor oil... Put a new seal in, with a new ...

I'd run some lubro moly diesel purge through the pump. A lot of it, clean her out. Couldn't hurt. Sounds like something is sticking in it.

They aren't a speed demon but it should be able to hold its own. Having said that, climbing a hill in 5th is unrealistic. You can play around with timing advance and the "fuel screw" to squeeze a little more out of it. Might not be a bad idea to pick up a set of rebuilt injectors and new h...