Former VWDieselParts.com Forum

You can buy a replacement handle online. Get one with a key cylinder. When it comes, there is a screw holding the mechanism that actually locks and unlocks on. You take that screw out, insert the key the new handle comes with and then pull the cylinder out of the handle. Do the same with your old lo...

Keep the cold start lever (enrichement as you referred to it) pushed in when you try to start it. Don't pull it out. A lot of these beasts wont start with it out, but will with it in, and then once its firing, you can pull it out.

Colby

Sounds like a tappet to me. Its a hydraulic engine, yes? Also, your idle is far too high. It needs to come down a bit. Hard to tell how much without a tach, but its definitely idling too fast.

The board pretty much runs itself. I just poke around occasionally and update the software and occasionally have to run a database maintenance script.

A mechanic who has worked on these VW Diesels (and all varieties of diesel) told me that they only need 8 psi to function normally. You should be fine with 10psi at idle.

Put your old injectors in and try it with them. That would be my first guess, if your cam/crank/IP timing is all lined up right.

Colby

Actually, I always refer to Vag-Com as VCDS, since thats what a lot of people call it. Its made by Ross-Tech and is a comprehensive diagnostic and adjustment tool for OBD2(On board diagnostics revision 2, for cards 1994 and newer)

VCDS is not necessary but certainly helpful on the OBD2 based vehicles. It can also be used to check injection timing on the TDI motors as well as a myriad of other features. (Like disabling the seat belt alarm on my 04 Jetta GLS 1.8T, which was highly annoying)

As long as you line the marks up and put the new belt on exactly the way the old belt comes off, your timing shouldn't change any. We changed the timing belt on my father's 98 4 times this way, and never had to retime the engine. It always ran exactly the way it did before the change.

My 90 had the glow plug light stuck on. It wasn't the relay, and it wasn't water in the seperator under the car, so I disconnected the light by cutting the wire.

Email the owner of this site. He can tell you if he can get one or not.

Big thing: Does it have 11mm headbolts, or 12mm head bolts? Pop the oil cap off and peak inside with a light. 11mm bolts are allen style, 12mm are torx/tripple square style. You want to avoid the 11mm like the plague. They crack and are generally garbage. I'd take one as a gift, but thats about it. ...

I had a belt track that way on an IP pulley. It was wearing the outer edge of the belt. Quite a bit actually. It wasn't doing it prior, and I figured out that when I put the IP on, I did something wrong with the way it was mounted to the IP bracket. I ended up inadvertently moving it one way or anot...

This is a tough one. I'd replace it before you drive it. If it lets go on the road, you're in for a wild ride. They're relatively cheap. Just don't get any chinese imports, they don't last.

I've taken the alternator bracket off without removing the pump. It required the small drive ratchet, a universal and some extensions, but it can be done. At least, on my MK2, I could do it.