Former VWDieselParts.com Forum

I have to take a pry bar and pry the injection pump toward the engine on the end where the injecters hook up. And then tighten that last bolt while prying and this gets the belt to stay centered.

I need a crank pulley, looks like this: http://img155.imageshack.us/img155/4135/dscn1938di2.jpg I already checked with Jack, he does not have one and the link posted in an earlier post, the bidding has ended. The reason I need one is that my pulley still wobbles. I am hoping that if I get one in goo...

Same here, I was looking for an old post and could not find it using the forum search engine. I thought the search engine was limited but if you go to page 23 of the "VW Diesel (General)" forum, the last non poll post was Sun Feb 04, 2007 03:35:12. The last Poll post was dated Mon Sep 29, ...

What about this Truck. The guy wants $10,000 and claims $14,000 invested in it.

Buy a 10-mm x 1.0 to 1/8 NPT adapter (I think it is 1/8 NPT, it has been awhile). That is what I had to do. But my adapter ending up leaking, and once I found the oil pressure was all good, I put the idiot sensor back in to keep it from leaking oil.

Make a wire with aligator clips on it and keep it in your car. After that, put it on the battery + terminal and your IP solenoid. I was driving down the road and the same thing happened, popped the hood and put this on, and started it up, made it to work. The solenoid wire had worked lose from the s...

Here is the Link on how to DIY starter cleaning/upgrade. I got to my starter this weekend, and ended up replacing it with a new starter from an Auto parts store. It cranks faster, but still takes a couple of cranks. I am going to see how it goes over the next couple of days before I try to trouble s...

Fuel adjustment should not matter. Most pumps at set from the factory and then never touched and have a wire around the fuel setting screw. If timing and glow plugs are good, then I would check starter, battery, battery cables, and maybe compression. It is normal to have black smoke floored. Some wh...

I am already using fast glow plugs with a slow glow relay and this has worked in the past. I know that it will wear out my plugs faster, but so be it. They have already last over a year this way. The engine does not smoke too bad until I get on it, and even then, it is not coal black. I think I will...

I tested my compression today with the Harbor Freight Compression Tester. The results are not as good as I would like. All of these are with about 10 compression strokes with the engine warm. It took 10 cycles on most of them to peak out. 1 - 345 2 - 350 3 - 350 4 - 400 The car starts okay at 30°F ...

What sealant would you recommend, RTV? There is already a ruber gasket there, would you just coat that or the whole gasket around that area?

Advance to 1.05mm. That is what I have mine set to. It is on the advance end of the spectrum and seems to have power at all rpms. I know for a fact that 1.25mm is way too advance. Timing can also depends on what pump you have: yellow dot, early 80s, late 80s, etc. I am not sure what the differences ...

My diesel is also due for a head gasket change due to an oil leak in the same area. The oil pipeline from the block to the head is in that same area. My leak is currently leaking about a qt every 300 miles. This will be the engine's 3rd head gasket in 250,000 miles.

So to recap, remove cam pulley, tensioner, two allens from the cover attching it to the head and then be carefull not to bend the cover. That does not sound to bad then. I will have to look up the which head bolts the CR engine takes, I know they are allen heads on the bolts. libbybapa - Is your new...

I have an oil leak (about 1 qt every 300 miles) and I have traced it to the front of the head gasket. I also have a water leak by piston 4, but it is not as bad. Either way, my time with this head gasket is limited. I have searched and searched this forum about how to do head gaskets, so I think it ...