Former VWDieselParts.com Forum

I'm not too sure the intake or turbo are the root of the problem.

I'd try putting a switch inline instead of a button on those GPs... the stock relay keeps them on during cranking and about 20 sec after.

What weight crankcase oil? Slow cranking is a significant issue with lower compression.

Yeah, it's tight... Zerostart/Temro is even tighter due to its larger diameter.

Very rare... I have never seen firsthand an inner cv fail. I have a box full of good ones taken from axles where the outers failed.

Steering thing is also weird. I'd be checking motor mounts to ensure the whole drivetrain is not jacked.

Nice... and rockin the 'toolies on the roof!

I had the same symptoms on my Caddy... I forgot to tighten the inner CV bolts.

The head is usually not consequential to gasket thickness... its the piston protrusion that usually matters most. Somebody might have tossed in a three-dot just spitballing it and skipped measuring the pistons. Skimming the head won't change that. There really shouldn't be anything hanging lower tha...

I gave up on Kats... Philips-Temro on four vehicles now. Rock solid operation for 4 years and running.

I don't think it matters much which central hole you use. I'd avoid an end hole. I still can't say enough good things about putting a hose heater in the big bypass hose, between the IP and the oil filter. Easy to install, easy to monitor, just as effective. I'd plug or leave the old block unit in pl...

These guys sell a MK1 alloy one for ~125 USD: http://www.fastbunnymetalwerks.com/fast-bunny-metalwerks Easy peasy. Some folks have switched out the entire MC & booster. Not so easy. Other option? I'm thinkin 3D printing, using PTEG plastic (same as the bottles). Some issues: I don't have a reser...

My MK2 85/86 Jetta TD... Got the rattle fixed, by installing a new M10 capscrew on the AC bracket. That was after I tapped/chased the threads on the AC bracket bushing. The one by the IP output that takes up the slack and accepts the M10 capscrew. The threads were grody/rusty after 30+ years. https:...

Sounds like you won't be using the stock MK2 compressor or condenser... not sure about the receiver. But if you then are only needing the fitting sizes for the expansion valve... those should be replaced on a refit and cost ~$25. You can get the thread info off that part.

I'd check with the site owner, see what they have.

Racks can be found for about 150 new, 75 -100 used.

Are you sure it's not an inner tie-rod? I had to replace my left last year. (same vintage as yours).

I use 5w-40 Delvac ESP in the winter. (Meijer stores currently have a $12 rebate on each gallon.)

And I concur that the starter connections, bushing, and battery should all be up to snuff.

I'd ensure the connections are tight on the lever assembly and the back of the hazard switch. All the wires go through the hazard switch.

Could be the relay... did the signal bulbs get replaced with LEDs? they might not draw enough current to heat up the flasher unless all four are on.

There is probably air coming in from the IP's main seal. Very common. Fairly easy DIY job to replace.