Former VWDieselParts.com Forum

Oh yeah, one more thing... especially on the Dashers, you're generally in a no-win battle against eventual overheating situations IF you don't have the factory - or replacement - air shields/directors/deflectors/flaps/seals/whatever-you-call-them in place around the radiator. That tall skinny-ass ra...

:? Re. the diesel Dasher, one of the two senders back there is for the gauge, the other is for the thermo control of the glow plugs' circuit. If the engine is already hot enough the glow plugs (supposedly) won't turn on at start-up. The Dashers, having the engines mounted in the chassis longitudinal...

x3... for a new M/C. As the M/C goes about its work for thousands of miles/kilometres, at the extension of 'normal' piston travel, the M/C bores develop a "crud ring" (probably not the technical term, but fairly common!) of somewhat hard deposits. When the mechanic & buddy do the 'pump...

The lines... a touchy point IMO. Before you start tweaking the IP's position very much, I'd suggest loosening the hard lines a little. Makes the IP position easier to change, and, having personally broken several lines, :oops: releasing the tension first seems to help avoid some "Oh, s***t"...

Yes, it's Dakota Digital that has the conversion piece.

Search term used: gasser tach Lotsa info comes up there, too!

Count on around $150, and worth every penny IMO. The 'stop-go-creeeak' drama :? when tightening the head down... gone! That would suggest (to me) that the indicated torque values I'm cranking in are very close to the actual torque on the fasteners, and in the end, providing a much more even clamping...

For US/Canada, both TD & N/A diesel engines commonly used mechanical cam followers until about mid-1986. No problem.

195/60R14 are standard on a lot of the MK3's. That will also keep the speedo the same. You might have to check to see if they fit because they are a little wider. The inflation is according to the manufacture recommendations. 33 on the front and 31 on the back with Toyo tires. There's no tire press...

a word of caution: when checking that 1.6L by Fatmobile's "hillbilly compression test"... only turn the engine crankshaft bolt clockwise (as you are looking at the bolt). Counter-clockwise is always a Negative, unless you WANT to disassemble the engine!

Yep, believe it... it's a former O-ring. The intermediate shaft bushings/bearings are commonly in better shape in a car without A/C or P/S, since a PO wasn't as likely to have over-tensioned the drive belt. Re. replacing the pulley/damper: blue Loctite threadlocker helps its 4 retaining bolts stay i...

Could also be a bad one-way valve to the booster. Underhood heat, oil fumes & plastics often don't play well together for extended periods.

... I don't know if it hurts the gauge to peg it. No problem AFAIK for most electrical gauges (with sending units). A mechanical gauge could sustain some serious damage from continued hard 'pegging' at well over its maximum pressure. Wish I hadn't chosen a mechanical oil pressure gauge for one inst...

As TylerDurden stated: 1.6 TD should drop in with the correct motor/tranny mounts. FYI the 1983 Rabbit Pickup (or "Caddy", as you probably know) was available in Canada/US with the 1.6TD as OE; they were not real common, but nonetheless, that listing can provide a good VAG factory (or FLAP...

clive ... IF there really are no TDC markings on the flywheel or crank pulley (damned Black Forest elves!), here's the "approved" way to find your engine's TDC, the official VAG "T01901 Top Dead Center Pin", on eBay at http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/301218091828?item=301218091828&...

Strange... with all my lurking around here, this is the first I'd seen this thread! Expected a bunch more previously unknown secrets. :roll: A strong "Yes" vote for the previously-mentioned upgrades for performance & power. The colder intake air (weather permitting) is obvious, but I'd...