Former VWDieselParts.com Forum

What's the name of the guy offering to work on your car? I know most of the diesel people here in Nashville, and most of them are hacks. If your block is original (11mm), it was made in Brazil, and is surely junk. Minimally, I would expect it needs a full rebuild. The white smoke is burning oil, lik...

With AC? Without AC? Stamped pulley? Cast-iron pulley?

I tried a few different transmissions before I pulled my head from my arse and figured out the codes. Here's what I'd do: Here's what you'll want: Tired-a$$ 1.5-1.6NA: All of these have 3.94 R& P or higher, and a .76 or .71 5th gear. AVX : out of 1991-1992 ECODiesel. These are RARE. 7A : out of ...

The ring and pinion is NOT the final drive. The R & P on those I suggested, is 3.94: just like your AWY (assuming that's what you have). The problem is in the gearing of 1st thru 5th. 1st and 2nd is pretty much the same across all 020 transmissions (as is reverse), but 3rd thru 5th on that AWY k...

Take a look at the pics in this thread: http://www.vwdieselparts.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=6694 The ONLY thing I can think of is, you installed the covers when the pump was upside down, and the indexing piston that engages the timing advance piston to the cage, somehow slipped into the cage ...

Yeah, that won't make much difference. If you lapped the valves (as noted above) you need to check the valve shim clearance. I've seen this happen to people many times.

Did it spin before you pulled the cold-start covers? As for my instructions, that applies if you do NOT have the front (radiator) side cover on yet. I'm not sure if that makes sense. Anyways, it sounds like something fell out inside your pump. You messing with the cold start will not prevent the pum...

I dunno. Really cleaned up (that "Tornado Pink" paint buffs up well), that car can fetch $3000 or over on ebay, or if you sit on it with local ads. $2500 is a good price to move it quick. But, to keep it... hmmm. It is a clean, straight example. But at the end of the day, it's just a bare-...

Vanes are likely stuck as noted by Fatmobile. The pump needs to be tore down or replaced.

Fatmobile wrote:Are you grabbing good reverse and 2nd gears out of these too? ha

Nah. Too much work to get beyond the 5th gear housing. I've saved a few, but don't split transmissions at the J-yard.

Am I looking something more like this: http://cgi.ebay.de/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=110712179147&fromMakeTrack=true&ssPageName=VIP:watchlink:top:de or this? http://cgi.ebay.de/VW-BUS-T3-1-6-TD-Diesel-Ansaugkrummer-JX-KY-CS-/110712196143?pt=DE_Autoteile&hash=item19c6f60c2f Both ...

And, just found another out of a 1982 Convertible with an FN trans.

The intake should be the same as any MK1/early MK2 with the BOV attached. Just move the neck to the back of the intake. The exhaust manifolds are a bit harder to come by. If you're in a pinch, check ebay Germany. They're the same manifolds used in the Turbo JX motors on Vanagons (hence the scarcity ...

That's usually where it comes from when it pours out. You can reseal it yourself if you're handy/clever. I've rebuilt/resealed about a dozen or so. There's really nothing to them. Just keep track of where the parts go. VW dealers sell a kit (if you can bother them to look up the PN) for just those s...

Go with the 87 degree stat. Get a WAHLER one (brass). If you live in a consistently-hot climate, then do the drill-hole trick. If not, then don't. I did it on my car here in Tennessee. It's nice to not see the gauge go up in the summer, but in the winter it sucked. Also get a new WAHLER temp switch....