Former VWDieselParts.com Forum

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my first attempt at images...not looking too good

no, i haven't tried rotating it when running yet. i want to double check the belt & pulley settings first. i took some pics of some alignment marks??? i'll see if i can post them. not sure how the img thing is supposed to work. i found the missing back bolt. it was never there so i'll need to fi...

yep, corpus christi.

it's a rabbit pickup "caddy" I pulled the IP to replace the head seal and got the timing a little off putting it back on. either I got it off by a tooth on the belt or the alignment/rotation of the IP on the mounting bracket it off.

i'm guessing I gotta be a tooth off on the belt. i wish they put timing makes on the cam pulley. all my other diesels have timing marks on every pulley. but i can't find one on the cam pulley...just the IP pulley. but i guess that's because the cam pulley supposedly has no shaft key and can be insta...

the engine will actually run with the IP 180 degrees off? i would have never guessed. i'd think the valves would all be in the wrong position to ensure compression at the point of injection. I'd think valves would be open and the fuel mixture would just get spit out and it would never even fire, or ...

i printed out your link. i'll take it home and double check the basic settings, TDC, cam locked, IP pin. but the car should start and run OK it all three are set? regardless of the final timing of the IP with a dial guage? It seems rotating the pump only changes it a couple degrees, plus or minus. I...

With the cam and crank at TDC you should be able to put a lockin pin in to the IP. The hole is at 12 o'clock IIRC and the pin goes thru the sprocket and the IP bracket and in to the IP. Move the IP until the pin goes all the way in and it will start nicely. Btw the IP has 4 bolts, not three, if you...

trying to get my rabbit running after R&R in the IP is a pain. I marked the belt and pulleys before removing the IP to replace the head seal. When i put it all back together it was very hard to start and keep running. even have to use a little gas as starting fluid. and lots of smoke. I noticed ...

why not just use "engine flush" ?

i've even heard of using diesel as an engine flush for an oil change

i would think in your oil would be bad. it's a cleaner i think...maybe as a motor flush but not as an oil additive.

i always thought seafoam more as a fuel additive. but i've never used it.

i just did mine and that groove is only like 1/8-1/4 inch below the head. is this a bosch or cav pump?

oops you are right...i did use poly... and it melted.

I did a test later with PEX. it did not melt but got very soft...to the point that you are going to have joint failures with PEX in my opinion.

i ended up using copper inside 3/4 heater hose for heating my WVO.

i couldn't find any kits for less than about $30. guess i looked in the wrong places. but for $2 bucks and fixed the same day I ain't gonna complain too much.

I got a couple "core" pumps I could rebuild entirely in my spare time with that $13 buck kit.

DO NOT USE PEX WITH A HEATED SYSTEM.

i used PEX when i built my first WVO system on my old Mercedes. I ran pex inside 3/4 heater hose for a HIH hose-in-hose heat exchanger off of my radiator system. it melted the PEX after a short with.

i didn't get a part number. they had a red box with about 50 different o-rings. i just grabbed one that was the same size as the old one and gave them a couple bucks. it's safe to say that probably all O'riellys have the same red box of o-rings. I'd recommend a hydraulic shop first. but i get out of...