Former VWDieselParts.com Forum

do you have any idea how many miles on current trans?

sachs clutch package, rear seal kit, make sure cl pkg has new bolts, trans seal kit, if you keep this trans, axles shouldnt wobble by hand very easily, with all this you may consider another trans? otherwise it sounds best to get it semi-rebuilt, is it worth it for this trans? unfortunately your tra...

the outer part of seal is the only area that needs sealant, rtv or permatex will work, on the outer half of seal, towards outside of carrier(s),motor, and set seal in carrier, let set. the oring its not bad if you moisten it with some oil, the inner lips of seal(s) i use a good syn grease, a good am...

simple solution, that bracket bolts thru firewall, and you have to jungle gym to get to the 3 nuts, not so simple, then when you remove from fire wall these 4 nuts of bracket come free, switch booster into same bracket. a 13mm socket, a swivel, a long extension, +perhaps another med ext, +a light. h...

hopefully its an over-fill, as the flush may have washed out all that gunk sealing the seals,etc. if you get the drip solved i have 1 question does it shift any better? if so you may be in luck, if not these tranys arent too bad, ive never had 1 that grinded, but other wise they have good longevity.

oil/water/compression loss from a bad head gasket is more likely on the inside,mixing up, not at the outside. ive never seen 1 that just leaks oil out the front of a h/g. unless head bolts are loose or what,

30dodgeboy wrote:What is the part number?
Does anyone have a part number for the seal flange's O-ring? Mine had a hard plastic ring, so I put a little RTV on it when reinstalling it.

prob can find o-ring from napa, its a slim o-ring.

i had a mk2 i had a quite similar problem, in a mk2 w/hydro front engine mount, loosen all 3 mounts, to remove front mount, easier with a hoist or with a jack, with jack oil pan off, good support(i also use a block of wood 2x4), you ll have it supported for a bit, as you try to change out bearing,ja...

let us know if theres an improvement in the shifting,
make sure you get gl-4 transaxle fluid, that looks like manual trans fluid, we also have the final drive in the front trans.
maybe a well chosen additive too.

why would you need to cycle glplgs that many times? 3 times is a lot, then start. check pos terminal connections to starter other connections, grounds &connections, ground from engine/trans to body, etc.

in some motors i had heard of part of the theory to oil pressure, as rpms go up pressure goes up, when you let off the revs the oil pressure drops, sometimes to less than idle, which isnt a problem as long as it doesnt go too low.

where you at jason?

I used a GL-5 75w90. gl-5 is gear lube isnt it? iirc we take gl-4 its transaxle lube. since when you drained out smootz just a little ago what id do is; get a good trans flush, add, warm her up, *if you can on a trans flush* drive for a good few miles, if you put an engine oil flush its ok to idle/...

in a gas engine, you have vacuum @intake, and at a loss of power. diesels have pos pressure, so they have to make vac outside, obviously at a loss. its@intake, &due to valve overlap, so the engine breathes.

diesels dont make their own vacuum, so you need a vac pump for things like power brakes and for things like the vents. its right above your oil pump, its on the drivers side of motor right there with a big line to power brakes.