Former VWDieselParts.com Forum

I have not. I even have a set and an 11mm 1.6 engine. I've read (on another forum) that even with studs, the 11mm block is a crapshoot, to the extent that many folks will not even bother trying to work with a defective design. That said, you could go with the 80 and see if you get a leak... that's a...

I'd probably put in the 80C t-stat.

This past week has been in the seventies here and my fan hasn't come on, around town or after highway runs.

The temps might not be excessive, but there is half the headroom for hard operation.

A higher temperature thermostat will make the engine run hotter. Most of the gauges on my rigs indicate 1/2 to 5/8 on the scale when fully warmed, 3/4 when pulling up long hills. A MK2 will self-purge air, provided the small hose is not obstructed. The stream should be steady, not spitting/sputterin...

Your transmission and tire size can tell you your rpm (provided you have the correct speedometer gear). A 1.6 in good condition should run 120kph all day long, with a typical 5spd. (~3500rpm) You could also guess your rpm with a smartphone and an audio spectrum meter app. 3000rpm is about 100hz. I a...

I rekon you need Bosch seal kit: DGK 121.

It will probably have the larger (20mm) mainshaft seal, so you'll need to purchase the 17mm seal as well:
Bosch P/N1 460 283 312

I undo the lines at both ends while they are all fastened together in their looms. The important part is making sure the bubble flares are seated properly when re-installing.

If you can get the exhaust mani off/on the head without popping it off the toilet bowl, I say go for it.

If the passenger mount is shot, you'll have to pull the IP and lines. Not much work there. The manifolds' are a bit awkward to get to, but I think they can be disconnected in place. (The intake probably needs to come out.) Any time you slack the belt or pull the pump, you want to reset/check the tim...

That doesn't look like quite 1/2", but it looks a bit more than the 1/8 or 3/16 that the spare in my parts pile has. I don't know much about the early vac pump and the Bentley I have doesn't say anything about that length, so no telling what the limits are. I'm gonna guess that the rotation of ...

Might be more than one issue here... I would: Check the crank sprocket: if you can loosen the crank bolt with less than a major breaker bar, you may have trouble with a damaged key/keyway. Replace the crank sprocket if needed, certainly the timing belt. Re time the engine (crank/cam/IP). Run a compr...

Postmortem on pump and filter would be instructive.

If it looks like this, it's actually got a temperature controlled valve inside the tee fitting that feeds the fuel back to the filter until it's warm. After that, it sends the fuel back to the tank. http://www.myturbodiesel.com/images/a4/ffil1.JPG (Not my pic.) They started using these in the US aro...

No problemo, sounds like things are heading the right direction.

If the thermostatic setup is not leaking, you might as well keep it. Down here, it doesn't get so cold, so that fuel filter warming system is not critical.

Alberta is a wee bit further north tho...

If you have a thermostatic tee fitting on the top of the filter, they are known to leak from stiff o-rings or cracks in the plastic. I usually get the older style filter and bypass the tee back to the tank.

Thanks for posting your info folks, I'm overdue for exhaust renewal on my 86 Jetta TD and am considering upgrading to 2.5" pipe with straight-through mufflers.

I'm hoping the glasspacks suppress most of the drone and let through most of the turbo whistle.

Ja, grounds are a common issue.

So are water leaks at the corner of the windshield right over the fusebox.

Not so common but known, are failed ignition switches.

I'd first try using a mechanic's remote starter/jumper button to connect directly to the starter, with the tranny in NEUTRAL.