Former VWDieselParts.com Forum

Yes, I was just going to use it on the intake and return lines under the hood to the filter, IP and back to the hard lines.

Cause a blocked return line cause this? My air compressor is down at the moment so I couldn't blow out the return line yet.

Awesome.. I have 10' of that. Was using it for the IV.. I'm going to use it... even if it doesn't last a long time, can always be replaced again later.

I'd like to replace all the fuel hose with clear/transparent line back to the hard lines.. but no one seems to have any. Any idea what is clear and durable enough for diesel?

Great, thanks for all your help. Will update. Update: Pulled fuel sender, cleaned screen.. was filthy.. Didn't fix the problem. Deleted water separator. Didn't fix problem. So, when the pump starts choking it's getting lots of air. When it dies, this air rushes out of the pump back up the hose as 10...

No, reconnect stalling out again. I think it might be the fuel pickup screen in the tank so can I change that through the access hole in the trunk?

Yes it does have fuel seperator.. tomorrow I'll get a couple feet of hose.. anyone know the ID? Also two hose clamps and bypass it.

You know what.. I thought they were self priming but I just did what you described before coming in to read your post. Used the IV to the filter before running with the filter and got all the air out.. there was lots and used that screw to bleed it as well. Started and ran perfectly with the filter....

Straight to IP from bottle... ran great even cold idle. Going to hook it up to the filter now, try that.

Also, my filter has a little screw on top.. is that a bleeder screw? When is it used?

Is there a way to prime the filter and make sure it's full?

Hey guys, I just got a new car. 1985 Jetta 1.6TD. Few issues to figure out. The car idles extremely rough and will stall if throttle is not applied. Changed my fuel filter and increased max fuel screw a bit so I can get around the car to the engine compartment before it stalls out. Now, it will star...

I found one at a local parts place. Aftermarket plastic one.

When trying to tighten the tensioner when installing the timing belt, my crank moves slightly so it's no longer tdc. I have cam lock inplace and pump lock in place.. Do I need to remove the camshaft from the sprocket? If so, whats the best approach in the vanagon with limited space to rap on the spr...

Well, I did notice one bolt was covered in oil when removing it from the head, must have been that one. I think it was #6? I'm also in a pickle, my thermostat housing broke when removing it.. old and brittle my guess. Anyways, there are none anywhere and they aren't made anymore by VW. I have one fr...

Well, my 11mm head had 12 bolt holes in the cylinder head (the corners on the manifold side) too small to even fit the bolts into, so I drilled them out a bit on the drill press last night at work and today I'm going to cut the 12mm washers off the bolts then slide the 11mm washers I ground out in t...

Hey guys, I've been reading up on this process. My 12mm head for my vanagon has a bent valve and I have a CR 1.6D engine and I pulled the head off of it. I found it was an 11mm head, I'm all ready to go but once on I noticed that the washers for the 12mm bolts are bigger then the washer seat in the ...