Bio kits

[coke]

If someone can assist me with this, I would like links to websites that list what parts you need to make a WVO system for your car, preferably cheaper than the ones that sell for 800+ dollars. Like a basic list of parts you need, and possibly some variations in instructions on how to run heater lines, etc. Any help would be appreciated.

[surfcam]

I've also been on the hunt for a kit and have not found a cheap one. Plus a lot have short comings. If you read the journey for ever web site you will find out even more short comings of some of the kits that are offered.
http://journeytoforever.org/biodiesel_svo.html
I bought plans off fatmobile and have collected most of the materials to install the conversion. I guess it might take a little longer but the whole idea is about saving money and help the planet anyway. Heck I'm even recycling a old outboard motor tank I got for 5 bucks.

4BTA 3.9 Cummins Stepvan
86TD Golf
91TD Jetta

[GreaseBaron]

You can save quite a few dollars if you use manual 3 way valves for the "fuel" flow control. The pricey electric solinoids are really convienient but not absolutely necessary to get a system to work properly. These valves can be found at major industrial supply warehouses for about $6 or so each. If they dont actually have the small sizes on hand, they can be easily ordered. And you dont really need an expensive custom made fancy tank to hold your grease. If you keep your eyes open, you will eventually find a salvage tank that will work for your particular application. You will need to be able to cut a hole in the top so you can lay in your "heat transfer tubing" and mount the inlet and outlet fittings. You can find an auxillary electric fuel pump for your grease line at any automotive swap meet for just a few bucks. And your fuel line or coolant "tubing" can actually be salvaged quite easily too if you start to look around large salvage yards..
When building a heat exchanger to heat your grease (on its way to the injector), there are 3 ways to go that will all work if they are designed right. You can use the hot coolant from the running engine, the hot exhaust from the running engine, or an electrical heater that runs off the alternator. Take a good look at your particular vehicle to see what might work best for you. A lot of these "parts" can be salvaged from other sources practically for free. Any combination can work as long as the design is sound and takes advantage of basic laws of physics. If you can get your grease up to 120 degrees (F) before it hits the injectors (hotter is better), it will probably work in your engine. But there are a lot of variability in engine and injector types so you will just have to experiment. And it is better to "experiment" with grease in the hot summer months so you are not fighting the gelling effects of the fuel in cold temps untill you have some basic knowledge. Your own imagination and ability to "improvise" mechanically and "think outside the box" is your best weapon to keep costs down. There is no reason a fully functioning grease conversion system has to cost more than $100 in my opinion. Once you have a basic system up and running you can always add "bells and whistles" to it as your budget and ambition allows.