91 ecodiesel motor into 82 diesel westy

[greasewagen]

I've got both motors out, and I'm in the process of swaping things over. Changing glow plugs, timing belt, gaskets, and probably water pump.
This engine has a small kkk turbo, but still interferes with the stock diesel vanagon DS engine mount.
I plan on using the stock jetta engine mount, bolted to a bent section of 1/4" steel plate, about 3" by 12". The other end of the plate will bolt to the vanagon DS mounting bar.
Has anyone ever tried this?

For the oil return to oil pan, I'm having a AN-8 fitting welded to the other end of the oil return pipe coming from the turbo. This will connect to a braided stainless oil line. I'm taping the vanagon oil pan for 3/8" NPT, and screwing in a 3/8"NPT x AN-8 fitting to connect the other end of the stainless oil line.
I'm going to run a cone filter with no intercooler (for now) for my intake. I think I want to run the exhaust thru a free flow cherry bomb muffler. Is 2" sufficient, or should I go with 2.5"?
I'll finish the vehicle with a custom SVO system.

[myke_w]

please do post pics!

[libbybapa]

Thoroughly check out this thread:
viewtopic.php?p=26213#26213

1/4" steel would seem too thin unless it is angle. 3/8" or better yet 1/2".

Have you tried tapping the oil return into the pan yet? The pan is very thin aluminum. I think you will have trouble if you do not reinforce it somehow. Just threading into the aluminum you might find that the vibration pulls the 2 turns of thread and you'll have all your oil on the road. Either use a steel plate on the outside and inside of the pan with two bolts through both plates and the pan and then a center hole for your fitting. Or have a boss welded onto the pan. Dumping all your oil is obviously very serious. Overly skimping on the oil return is not a good idea.

You need to reindex the center cartridge of the turbo so that the oil in is at 12:00 and the oil out is at 6:00. If you don't, then you will have turbo oil drainage problems. With the center indexed properly on the jetta manifold, the oil return collides with the wastegate. The above thread shows the only solution I could come up with.

Andrew

[greasewagen]

I'll work on getting some pics up soon.
Thanks Andrew for the experienced insight.
The oil pan is at least 1/4", and I thought that would be sufficient. But maybe you're right. I should beef it up by welding another plate of alluminum or a 3/8" npt alluminum coupling in. I don't think I would make more holes and bolt steel in. I have a AN-8 fitting welded to the oil drain pipe of the turbo, which is within 15 degrees of 6 oclock already.
The 1/4" adapter plate for the ds engine mount might not be beefy enough, but I spent enough time making it I might as well try it.
Ken

[greasewagen]

I started the TD westie for the first time on wednesday! She feels great with plenty of acceleration at slow speeds. I only got her to 55 or so, and the engine wa spinning pretty fast. I want to research what size larger tires people are using to combat this. A tranny swap is not going to happen on my budget.
Of course the most complicated coolant hose split about 20 miles into my ride home! I ended up splicing in a 1.5 inch exhaust pipe section with hose clamps to get it home, but I noticed the hose is starting to split in a second place. So we left the van in VT and drove my SVO powered passat to cape cod instead. Thank god I did so, because the drive back last night was very snowy. I have studded snows on the passat.
Here are some of the final details:
I had my friend add some steel at a right angle to the 1/4" engine mount adapter I made. When we first got the engine in, it was sitting a bit too high on the drivers side, as others have experienced. I took their advice and drop the carrier bar down with a spacer up front and shifting the rear plate down an inch. Now it fits perfect. Ended up making a 2 1/4" exhaust out of 2 90 degree sections and a thrush cherrybomb free flow muffler. It sounds great and combined with the cone filter allows the turbo to spool up faster.
After getting more expert advice about the oil pan return situation, I decided to tap the flat section and back it up on both sides with JB weld. I broght the oil pan to a race car shop to weld in extra alluminum and they stated that it wan't neccesary.
A key element to my oil system is the lack of mulit purpose hoses and hose clamps. I used stainless flexible oil lines with AN-8 fittings. When I replaced my oil lines on my diesel 1 ton van, I was going to use rubber hose and clamps. But a variety people warned against such practices, saying the hot oil (over 200F) at 50 + psi could potentially blow off such a setup. It looks like some here have had luck with it so far.

[libbybapa]

But a variety people warned against such practices, saying the hot oil (over 200F) at 50 + psi could potentially blow off such a setup. It looks like some here have had luck with it so far.

Nope, not under any pressure at all. It is purely gravity flow (thus the reason for larger ID tubing than the supply). If any pressure were to build in the oil return line, oil would blast out of the shaft seals causing runaway from the intake side and a huge cloud from the exhaust side and probably mess up the turbo bearings. The multi-purpose hose I used is rated above 500° and some 75 psi. The oil will never get above 300° without other significant engine problems and as I mentioned, the return line is not under any pressure at all.

Andrew