Hey guys! So I'm knee deep in engine pulling and I have a few questions.
1981 Rabbit diesel
-I am reading in the Bentley Manual about removing the transaxles, and first off, what kind of whacky torex bit do they use for the bolts?
-Also, must you really fully remove the transaxles? And if so, am I getting it right that you need to take the front wheels off?
Thanks guys! This engine and trans is out of an 83, I've already noticed that the reverse light harness is different. Any suggestions? Any other issues I should know about?
Man, I'm totally stoked on being that much closer to Rabbitdom!!!
transaxle, engine pulling question
Moderator: Fatmobile
The drive axles, of halfshafts, are bolted to the transmission with 8mm triplesquare or 12pt bolts. A Torx is likely to strip. Be sure to clean the heads with a paper clip and them hammer your tool in before trying to break them loose.
It's not necessary to remove the driveshafts from the car when removing the transmission. Just tie them out of the way. However, removing them completely does make getting the tranny in and out much easier. If you do remove the 30mm axle nut, be sure to buy new nuts (they're not supposed to be re-usable).
The reverse switch on the transmission is different on cars with an upshift light. If you're swapping the non-upshift transmission into a car with the upshift light (as I did), just cut the big connector off and crimp lugs onto the right wires (see wiring diagram in Bentley) to attach to the reverse switch. Reverse lights work fine (though the upshift light may not behave correctly).
If you're going the other way, putting a upshift light tranny into a non-upshift light car, you'll again need to cut the wires and attach the two reverse switch wires to the right two contacts on the switch. Not sure which ones, though. Should be able to look at the colors of the wires on the connector and figure it out from there with the help of the book.
It's not necessary to remove the driveshafts from the car when removing the transmission. Just tie them out of the way. However, removing them completely does make getting the tranny in and out much easier. If you do remove the 30mm axle nut, be sure to buy new nuts (they're not supposed to be re-usable).
The reverse switch on the transmission is different on cars with an upshift light. If you're swapping the non-upshift transmission into a car with the upshift light (as I did), just cut the big connector off and crimp lugs onto the right wires (see wiring diagram in Bentley) to attach to the reverse switch. Reverse lights work fine (though the upshift light may not behave correctly).
If you're going the other way, putting a upshift light tranny into a non-upshift light car, you'll again need to cut the wires and attach the two reverse switch wires to the right two contacts on the switch. Not sure which ones, though. Should be able to look at the colors of the wires on the connector and figure it out from there with the help of the book.
'82 Diesel Rabbit • '88 Fox (RIP) • '88 Jetta (work in progress)
Having done two tranny swaps, I would recommend removing the axles just te prevent possible damage to CV boots. First time I tied them out of the way and had a tough time working around them, second time was much easier with the axles removed.
Bob
'06 Jetta TDI
'82 Rabbit 1.6NA
Honda, 99 GMC Suburban, '41 Chevy Coupe
'06 Jetta TDI
'82 Rabbit 1.6NA
Honda, 99 GMC Suburban, '41 Chevy Coupe
-
Fatmobile
- Global Moderator
- Posts: 7566
- Joined: Wed Oct 30, 2002 10:28 pm
- Location: north central Iowa
engine pull
Yeah, I pull the driver's side ball joint bolt and seperate the control arm from the hub... so the axle will pull out. I leave the driver's side axle on, it's short and doesn't get in the way.
I can get by without pulling the axles off but that passenger side can bind up when I try to lower the engine so I usually remove it.
Don't roll the car around after the axle is out or you will need new front bearings. I have axle ends that I can bolt into the hubs and hold the bearings together.
That makes it OK to roll or tow.
I can get by without pulling the axles off but that passenger side can bind up when I try to lower the engine so I usually remove it.
Don't roll the car around after the axle is out or you will need new front bearings. I have axle ends that I can bolt into the hubs and hold the bearings together.
That makes it OK to roll or tow.
'91 Golf gasser converted to a 12mm pump, M-TDI.
'84 1.6TD Rabbit with a VNT-15 turbo, still setup to run on vegetable oil.
'84 GTI with 1.7TD pistons and intercooled.
2003 TDI wagon
2000 TDI Jetta.
'84 1.6TD Rabbit with a VNT-15 turbo, still setup to run on vegetable oil.
'84 GTI with 1.7TD pistons and intercooled.
2003 TDI wagon
2000 TDI Jetta.