Hi All!
I have a 1.6 TD in an 83 vanagon... I have been needing to crank engine over for a long while (~15 seconds) to reprime the pump and then she'd fire right off. now, nothing!... I cracked the injector pipes loose a bit, and crank motor for a minute... no weepage at pipes... is my pump shot? would this be b/c of a leaking front seal?
I have another TD pump, on a run out motor I pulled from my 85 Quantum, (an I put a seal in it a while bac when the low sulfer lssue made it start leaking) BUT I can't get the timing belt sprocket off... anyone recommend a puller or plan "b" that will get it off?
thanks, Steve
bad injection pump?
Moderator: Fatmobile
are you seeing leakage from the front seal...? I wasn't sure from what I read...
Have you checked the rubber fuel lines to make sure there are no leaks? My Jetta quit (while driving her), it turned out to be a hole in the a fuel line...
and being a pressurized system, air getting in will cause a no start problem like yours...
at least I think so...
Have you checked the rubber fuel lines to make sure there are no leaks? My Jetta quit (while driving her), it turned out to be a hole in the a fuel line...
and being a pressurized system, air getting in will cause a no start problem like yours...
at least I think so...
1990 Jetta GL Diesel
1991 Vanagon GL w/subaru 2.2
1989 Bronco
2008 Honda Fit Sport
1991 Vanagon GL w/subaru 2.2
1989 Bronco
2008 Honda Fit Sport
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Quantum-man
- Turbo Charger
- Posts: 2085
- Joined: Mon Apr 24, 2006 4:34 pm
- Location: Gloucester; Limey-Land
Air won't get in where it's pressurised! Fuel supply is under vaccuum; thus air getting in makes life hard for the pump.inmytree wrote:are you seeing leakage from the front seal...? I wasn't sure from what I read...
Have you checked the rubber fuel lines to make sure there are no leaks? My Jetta quit (while driving her), it turned out to be a hole in the a fuel line...
and being a pressurized system, air getting in will cause a no start problem like yours...
at least I think so...
Pump pressurised and so leaks fuel through faulty o rings. It could be that your fuel solenoid rubber stopper is faulty and not opening correctly. R & R [inspect at least...]
"I'm not here to help... I'm here to Pro-Volke"
Be like meeee...Drive a Quantum TD
...The best work-horse after the cart...
Quantae grow on you...but Rabbits are like roses...
... girls like em ;o)
Only one Darwin, Einstein, Poe and Verne.
That is why if you listen, you will learn:
From the one and only Quantum-man,
Who sees the worms from outside of the can.
7 Quantae in 20 years; 4 dead and 3 TD's still alive [2 wagons & 1 fastback] oh and a GTD)
Be like meeee...Drive a Quantum TD
...The best work-horse after the cart...
Quantae grow on you...but Rabbits are like roses...
... girls like em ;o)
Only one Darwin, Einstein, Poe and Verne.
That is why if you listen, you will learn:
From the one and only Quantum-man,
Who sees the worms from outside of the can.
7 Quantae in 20 years; 4 dead and 3 TD's still alive [2 wagons & 1 fastback] oh and a GTD
)If you have a clear fuel line from the filter to the pump you could see if air is getting sucked into the pump; that could cause your problem. As Quantum-man mentioned, the stop solenoid is another possibility. If the front seal is leaking so badly that the pump drains out of fuel overnight it might contribute to your problem, but otherwise I don't think a leaking front seal would cause it; you would still get the high pressure injection from the plunger.
Look under homemade tools for a sprocket remover, or do a search in the forum. Not too long ago somebody else had the same problem with an IP sprocket that wouldn't come off.
Look under homemade tools for a sprocket remover, or do a search in the forum. Not too long ago somebody else had the same problem with an IP sprocket that wouldn't come off.
81 Pickup 1.6NA; '86 Cabriolet with 1.6 TD
the front seal was leaking... and the van sat for 6 weeks... BUT, should it not reprime itself?
I tightened up the connections at the poump and the filter, but the lines are the original (dark brown).
Is there a secondary pump in the system to bring fuel to the IP?
What's involved in a pump rebuild? is it somthing I can do myself?
I tightened up the connections at the poump and the filter, but the lines are the original (dark brown).
Is there a secondary pump in the system to bring fuel to the IP?
What's involved in a pump rebuild? is it somthing I can do myself?
No secondary pump; there's a vane pump inside the IP that sucks fuel from the tank, presurizes the IP with fuel, and thereby provides fuel to the plunger that produces the high pressure injection. If there's only air in the pump, it doesn't really work well at all.
Sucking air into the fuel lines is a common problem: the vent line to the tank can be clogged, the pickup screen in the tank can be clogged, if the fuel filter is old, it can be causing enough of a restriction to cause the pump to suck in air. A clear fuel line is really helpful in diagnosing that particular problem.
You could remove the fuel line at the filter, stick it in a clean tank of clean fuel, and see if it will pull fuel into the pump when you crank it. Or you could remove the inlet fitting on the pump and pour fuel directly into the pump until it is full. Be careful to avoid any trash and grit; it can kill your pump and/or injectors.
Check to see that there is an audible click at the stop solenoid on the pump when you turn the ignition on. Maybe it's faulty, or maybe the wire got disconnected?
Pump rebuilding: You might replace the seals on the pump, but a re-build is really a job for the pump re-builders.
Sucking air into the fuel lines is a common problem: the vent line to the tank can be clogged, the pickup screen in the tank can be clogged, if the fuel filter is old, it can be causing enough of a restriction to cause the pump to suck in air. A clear fuel line is really helpful in diagnosing that particular problem.
You could remove the fuel line at the filter, stick it in a clean tank of clean fuel, and see if it will pull fuel into the pump when you crank it. Or you could remove the inlet fitting on the pump and pour fuel directly into the pump until it is full. Be careful to avoid any trash and grit; it can kill your pump and/or injectors.
Check to see that there is an audible click at the stop solenoid on the pump when you turn the ignition on. Maybe it's faulty, or maybe the wire got disconnected?
Pump rebuilding: You might replace the seals on the pump, but a re-build is really a job for the pump re-builders.
81 Pickup 1.6NA; '86 Cabriolet with 1.6 TD
If the front seal was leaking significantly then the pump would drain. If you let a pump sit dry, often times, the vanes of the vane pump will end up being stuck in place. In order to function properly, the vanes need to move by centrifugal force. If any of the vanes get stuck then the pump will not have the ability to draw fuel. I have not come up with a really functional way to unstick the vanes once dried fuel has stuck them in place, other than completely dismantling the injection pump. Granted I haven't tried very hard, as I've only had one pump with sticky vanes that was installed on an engine and at this point I will routinely reseal a pump that has sat dry and in the process unstick the vanes prior to install.
Additionally, if the front seal leaks, often it dumps diesel on your timing belt. Because diesel degrades rubber VERY quickly, often times if the front seal is allowed to leak for any period of time, the belt will get soft, jump time and trash your engine. I have never known the seal to fix itself, and so addressing a leaking front seal pronto can prevent significant increased service costs, like the necessity for replacing the engine or rebuilding the injection pump. (stepping down from soapbox...)
Andrew
Additionally, if the front seal leaks, often it dumps diesel on your timing belt. Because diesel degrades rubber VERY quickly, often times if the front seal is allowed to leak for any period of time, the belt will get soft, jump time and trash your engine. I have never known the seal to fix itself, and so addressing a leaking front seal pronto can prevent significant increased service costs, like the necessity for replacing the engine or rebuilding the injection pump. (stepping down from soapbox...)
Andrew
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Vincent Waldon
- Turbo Charger
- Posts: 1148
- Joined: Sat Dec 16, 2006 3:05 pm
- Location: Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
No problemo...look for a short brass solenoid-looking device on the drivers side of the pump... the cast iron section that the high pressure lines come out of that go to the injectors. It will have one wire going to a terminal on the top of the device. It should click when someone turns the key on and off, but even if it does it may still be defective... easiest way to test is replacement.
Vince
Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
2001 silver TDI Jetta Malone Stage 1.5 , 2001 blue TDI Jetta SBIII 216s Malone Stage 3
1970 Bay Window bus
Gone but not forgotten: 1969/1971 Beetles, 1969/1974 Westies, 1979 Rabbit, 1986 TD Jetta, 1992 gas Jetta, 1994 TD Jetta
Here's a small collection of HOW-TOs
Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
2001 silver TDI Jetta Malone Stage 1.5 , 2001 blue TDI Jetta SBIII 216s Malone Stage 3
1970 Bay Window bus
Gone but not forgotten: 1969/1971 Beetles, 1969/1974 Westies, 1979 Rabbit, 1986 TD Jetta, 1992 gas Jetta, 1994 TD Jetta
Here's a small collection of HOW-TOs
Pump Issues UPDATE!!!
Hi All,
I got my beast running again! WHY it stated I'm not sure...
here's what I did
I did what you'all mentioned, and took the banjo fitting off the top of the filter, and stuick it in a bottle of diesel...the pump sucked it up quick! I expected the 3 out of 4 loosened fuel pipe fittings to start seeping fuel... they never did... BUT that hard to reach injector next to the pump STATRED FIRING... the engine was trying to start on just one cylinder !! SOOO I tightened the 3 other injector lines, and BOOM insta-running diesel!
MY though was this... the seal's leaking like a sieve, and once it leaked all the way down, I don't think the pump was able to suck through the filter, ( I put a vacuum pump on the filter, and it sucked through it with no problem) There's a mess under the van where I stop it, as the pumps dripping a LOT.
So I WON'T let the van sit that long, now that I know what a PITA it is to reprime, AND I'll get this extra pump rebuilt, and use biodiesel safe seals!
thanks, for all the help!
Regards,
Stee
I got my beast running again! WHY it stated I'm not sure...
here's what I did
I did what you'all mentioned, and took the banjo fitting off the top of the filter, and stuick it in a bottle of diesel...the pump sucked it up quick! I expected the 3 out of 4 loosened fuel pipe fittings to start seeping fuel... they never did... BUT that hard to reach injector next to the pump STATRED FIRING... the engine was trying to start on just one cylinder !! SOOO I tightened the 3 other injector lines, and BOOM insta-running diesel!
MY though was this... the seal's leaking like a sieve, and once it leaked all the way down, I don't think the pump was able to suck through the filter, ( I put a vacuum pump on the filter, and it sucked through it with no problem) There's a mess under the van where I stop it, as the pumps dripping a LOT.
So I WON'T let the van sit that long, now that I know what a PITA it is to reprime, AND I'll get this extra pump rebuilt, and use biodiesel safe seals!
thanks, for all the help!
Regards,
Stee