Dragging Left Wheel

BrentN · Post by **BrentN** » Tue Mar 13, 2007 12:58 pm

Am in the process of putting my rebuilt engine back in my Rabbit. I am getting near the end of completing this task.

I just put in the new CV axles last night and noticed a bit of a problem.

I got the inboard bolts all tightened up, spinning the wheels around to get good access. I then went to snug up the spindle nut on the left wheel (about 20 ft-lbs while the car is still jacked up) and the wheel became very hard to spin. To the point that I couldnt spin the wheel and tire by hand.

Knowing that this wasnt right, I then loosened up the spindle nut and the wheel spun freely again. I tried re-snugging and the same proble occurred.

Does anyone have an idea as to what may be wrong here? Do I have bad bearings.

A little bit of history:
When I was removing the original axles, I did remove the left hand wheel, before I realized that the spindle nut could be easily accessed with the wheel and tire still on the vehicle. (That and you wouldnt be able to break loose the spindle nut). I put the wheel back on without any issue. I dont think this is the problem.

As far as the vehicle history goes, I really only drove this car for about 25miles after I bought it, before I yanked the engine (extreme blowbly, culiminating in a blown headgasket), so I really dont know if it had a dragging wheel before I bought it.

I would really appreciate advice on this issue.

Thanks in advance!

VWCaddy · Post by **VWCaddy** » Tue Mar 13, 2007 1:17 pm

You might want to closely compare the old and new CV axle to see if there is anty difference. Sometimes, the outer CV end is too large and rubs on the inside of the wheel bearing/hub, or the axle shaft is a little too long and binds up when you tighten things down.

GreyRabbit · Post by **GreyRabbit** » Tue Mar 13, 2007 2:39 pm

Did you move the car at all with the axle out?

Vincent Waldon · Post by **Vincent Waldon** » Tue Mar 13, 2007 2:41 pm

Another thought... did you roll the car, even a little, while it didn't have an axle ?? The bearings are extremely fragile without support and can evidently be toasted even with a very short trip in the garage.

Doesn't sound like it but I thought I'd ask...

Vince

BrentN · Post by **BrentN** » Tue Mar 13, 2007 2:45 pm

"Did you move the car with the axles out"-
No, I bunjee corded the axles into place while I moved the car around. Once the car was back into my garage, just before I put the engine/tranny back in, I pulled the CV joints. So the car hasnt moved with the CV joints out.

Upon discussion with a fellow VW owner here at work, he indicated that when I pulled my left wheel off, it is possible that the rotor got cocked when I put the wheel and tire back on and that could be causing the issue...makes sense.

As far as the diameter goes on the end of the CV bell where it mates to the wheel end...I dont have the old joints any longer, but I will take a set of calipers to the two diameters and see if I have a problem there.

Post by **Fatmobile** » Tue Mar 13, 2007 11:54 pm

It almost sounds like a problem associated with 100mm Scirocco axles in a 90mm setup.
If you remove the new axles take a look at the end where it mates up to the hub.
You should be able to see where it is hitting the stationary part of the hub... a little metal "ring" on the end of the axle, that extends too far and rubs on the hub.
It should leave a mark on the hub too.
If it hasn't left a mark, tighten it until it just starts to rub, spin it a few times, then there should be a visible mark.
Grind this extra lip off the axle end, you should be fine.

BrentN · Post by **BrentN** » Wed Mar 14, 2007 12:10 am

An update:
The problem is a tight fitting CV joint. VWCaddy & Fatmobile, you are right on the money about the interference area. As the spindle nut gets tightened, the rotating CV bell contacts the stationary wheel hub.

I had given some thought to grinding down the interference area, but wasnt sure if that was the only difference between axle I have and the axle that I need. (I didnt pay close attention to what the old one looked like when I pulled it). Your advice is much appreciated, I will take the bad boy to work with me tomorrow and hit it with a grinder.

I really didnt want to have to take the axle back...I have had it for the better part of 2 months, while I waited to get everything together to drop the engine back in. The funny thing was is that the right hand axle didnt have any issues...go figure.

Thanks again for everyone's advice...I really appreciate it.

Ps: Used the Muffler clamp method of installing the Exhaust C Clamps and it worked like a charm...Nice tip!!

BrentN · Post by **BrentN** » Thu Mar 15, 2007 12:07 am

Just a follow up. I ground the OD of the CV bell where the interference was with the wheel end....Problem Solved!

Thanks everyone for your advice!

rayray · Post by **rayray** » Fri Jun 29, 2007 11:22 am

Hi. I'm bringing this old topic back to the front because I am having the same problem.

My new cv axle is binding up where it contacts the bearing housing when tightening the axle nut. You can see scraping along the axles outer flange and the inside of the bearing housing.

This is actually the second axle that I am attempting with the same problem. The first axle had even more contact. So, when I returned it, I brought along the original one that I pulled from the car. None of the ones in stock looked like the original. None even looked like each other- they all had slightly different shaped outboard lips.

So.... my question is... I was considering just adding a washer between the cv end and the bearing. My theory being that it will push the axle towards the tranny and thus clear the bearing housing. Any issues with this approach?
I'm most concerned with altering the length of the cv axle reach, even slightly, will cause problems.

Any other ideas short of removing the axle again and trying to find another axle from a different store?

BrentN · Post by **BrentN** » Fri Jun 29, 2007 2:00 pm

I wouldnt add a washer as that thickness will put an axial load on your cv joint. Take your cv joint to a benchtop grinder and grind down the area of interference. Mine have given me no further issues.

rayray · Post by **rayray** » Fri Jun 29, 2007 2:22 pm

Yes. I too was worried about how a washer would effect the axle geometry.

I am going out in the garage now to try my luck with grinding down the problematic area.

I don't understand why this would be necessary for me to do this at home. Aren't these things machined to spec? Reminds me of having to grind down the strut bearing bushing to fit without any slop in the strut. Why, o why can't they just makes these things fit like they should???

82vdub · Post by **82vdub** » Fri Jun 29, 2007 3:09 pm

There could be many reasons why this particular part doesn't fix. Without mentioning reasons, I will mention that the complexity of automotive replacement parts has gotten extremely difficult since about the mid 80's. Many cars that share similar engines or transmissions will within themselves have many different replacement parts that will not exchange between the two engines or transmissions of the same size and type. Unfortunately, I do not see this area changing anytime soon.

rayray · Post by **rayray** » Sun Jul 01, 2007 2:22 pm

I ended up grinding down the cv axle flange. It actually went quite smoothly on the bench grinder. Might be something for people to look for BEFORE installing the axle.