how to pull engine in vanagon

pipimilr · Post by **pipimilr** » Wed Aug 22, 2007 8:19 pm

What are some of the ways to remove the engine? With or without trans? Thought about making a hoist with blocks and a com-a-long or should I go rent a cherry picker? Wheres the weight balance when pulling both engine and trans and where to put the chain? I think I will need to replace the drive seals on the trans, so should I pull it or not? Thanks for the help. Irene

libbybapa · Post by **libbybapa** » Wed Aug 22, 2007 9:32 pm

viewtopic.php?t=5466

No need to pull the tranny. The input shaft seal can be easily replaced while the tranny is still in the vehicle. Be sure to check that the oil slinger behind is still a press fit and that the pilot bearing in the crank is good as well.

Andrew

pipimilr · Post by **pipimilr** » Fri Aug 24, 2007 2:02 pm

Andrew, I need to replace the drive shaft seals where the halfshafts connect, can that be done with out pulling the trans? If I pull just the engine how much room do I need to clear the shaft of the trans., and then how hard is to connect it back to trans when installing? Seems like it mite be easier to do both at the same time. I see your method of engine cribbing, I was thinking of stacking timber on each side of the hatch with a beam across and then hang a comealong, looks like I would have the room, does this seem feasable? Thank you for your help. Irene

libbybapa · Post by **libbybapa** » Fri Aug 24, 2007 3:38 pm

I misread your post slightly. The drive flange seals can be replaced with the transmission in the car. No all that hard to do. The downside is additional time rolling around under the van in uncomfortable positions. At that point I would likely drop both at the same time. Personally I would still use the "poor man's hoist" I linked to and add a jack under the tranny nose. I would drop the engine and transmission down to rest on blocks, the rotate which block got replaced with a thinner one until it was on the ground. The advantage to the "poor man's hoist" over a come along or real engine hoist is that I connect three point all of which can be adjusted in height or moved left/right or front/back. This allows you to easily and very accurately align everything with very minimal effort. A come-along will only give you one point and the way that the drive train hangs from that point will be determined by it's relation to the entire assembly's center of gravity. The potential exists for a whole lot more huffing, puffing and cussing. I almost always work by myself and greatly prefer my "poor man's hoist" over a real engine hoist for it's increased adjustability.

Andrew

pipimilr · Post by **pipimilr** » Sat Aug 25, 2007 4:55 pm

Andrew, what size all thread are you using, and where are you connecting to? thanks, Irene

libbybapa · Post by **libbybapa** » Sun Aug 26, 2007 4:32 pm

I believe it is 1/2" all thread. Use a couple of big washers (fender washers) under the nut. I clip onto the front and rear mounting loops (look at the engine and you will see what I mean) and to a piece of angle with two holes in it that I bolt to the block with one of the water pump bolts.

Andrew

stopping · Post by **stopping** » Mon Aug 27, 2007 11:23 pm

A chain, a 2x4x8' and some blocks of wood work great.... The starvin hungry lift!

You still need a small floor jack on the tranny nose still but otherwise you would loop a chain over the 2x4 and link it to the one or two places on the engine that you can place a chain open link. Don't try using a hook... make it bolted or fix linked... no risk of it catching, releasing the hook and smashing your aluminum/ magnesium pan on the concrete.

To lift the engine you put a 8ft 2x4 across the van's bed (lengthwise with the van), lift on the 2x4 from the part stiking out the back of the van while the chain lifts the engine and get a buddy to slide a wide block between the van bed and under the 2x4. Then you push down on same end or lift from the other end.... slip in another block and repeat for 4-6 blocks yes?
I did this solo by lifting both the front and back 2x4 and holding it with one hand I could flip a block under.

To lower the engine you need to figure out the length of chain and hight of blocks you need before you start and go backwards.

It crude by very cheap, controllable and fast.

ctange · Post by **ctange** » Tue Sep 25, 2007 9:51 am

libbybapa wrote:viewtopic.php?t=5466

No need to pull the tranny. The input shaft seal can be easily replaced while the tranny is still in the vehicle. Be sure to check that the oil slinger behind is still a press fit and that the pilot bearing in the crank is good as well.

Andrew

How high do you need to lift up the car, to be able to pull the engine+tranny
out if it is lowered down on a plate of plywood?

libbybapa · Post by **libbybapa** » Tue Sep 25, 2007 10:23 am

I've never measured. It's easily accomplished with the stock jack and a small set of jack stands.

Andrew

stopping · Post by **stopping** » Wed Sep 26, 2007 4:41 pm

It's around 22" clear so lifting the van another 10" or so.... but you should lower the engine first then jack up the van.

Don't forget to support the tranny!

Or take the tranny out too... not that much more difficult.

stopping · Post by **stopping** » Wed Sep 26, 2007 4:46 pm

Oh right ok

I just realized you are taking the tranny too.

To give the metric = numbers

You need about 55cm clear to slide the engine out on plywood. So that means you need to lift the van another 25cm.