Starter rebuild tutorial/pictures?

vwkook · Post by **vwkook** » Mon Oct 29, 2007 12:01 pm

First off, I did a search and did not come up with anything.
One of the few things I've never done(to a VW diesel) is to rebuild a starter. As the cool weather approaches my engine cranks too slow. Between the three starters I've got laying around, I should be able to get one good one. The one that has a good motor has a broken bendix (the gear is stuck out/extended) Are these pretty easy to fix/rebuild? Is there a good source for starter parts out there? Sorry for babbling. Thanks in advance.

82vdub · Post by **82vdub** » Mon Oct 29, 2007 12:15 pm

Have you tried Jack yet? I've never looked specifically for these types of parts before, but he may be a good place to start.

You can get rebuild kits to rebuild starters at some supply places (Fleet Farm is one example). However, I think they are for the more common old style Chevy, Chrysler, and Ford starters. You may be able to purchase individual pieces (brushes, etc) from a parts store, but I've never tried that. There is a place here in town (Green Bay) that rebuilds starters and alternators and that's all they do. I've always just dropped off my goods and pick it up the next day when they're done with it. They are called Green Bay Rebuilders (http://www.gbrebuilders.com/). You can either send them your goods, or disassemble your starter and order the correct parts through them.

JRM · Post by **JRM** » Mon Oct 29, 2007 12:33 pm

never searched for these items on my VW but I did just pick up a OEM rebuild kit for my toyota from the dealer, very inexpensive and worked like a charm! It was just the brass contacts that wear out, $0.63 later it fires up like new

vwkook · Post by **vwkook** » Mon Oct 29, 2007 7:44 pm

So, I've got one good motor in one starter and one good bendix/solonoid in the other. Could someone help me on how to get these apart and turn them in to one good one? Do I need special tools? Thanks again.

82vdub · Post by **82vdub** » Mon Oct 29, 2007 8:17 pm

You shoudl not need anything more than common tools to take this apart and put it back together. What you might find that is causing your slow starting issue is high resistance in the cables to the starter, or connection points. Also, the bushing in the transmission can also wear causing much more drag on the starter.

tawney · Post by **tawney** » Mon Oct 29, 2007 8:48 pm

It's not a re-build, but: I've had very good results on three different starters just dis-assembling, cleaning, applying grease, and re-assembling. The increased rpm when cranking made a huge difference in starting. Don't forget to grease the bushing in the transmission bellhousing.

Of course if the brushes are gone, or some other electrical component, then all the cleaning and grease isn't going to help.

Steve

thuffman · Post by **thuffman** » Tue Oct 30, 2007 4:46 am

My slow starter woes were fixed by restoring a rubust ground between block and battery. Also a new starter cable didn't hurt. JM2C.

3Bunnys · Post by **3Bunnys** » Tue Oct 30, 2007 9:39 am

If I had my starter out I would definitely replace the bushing in the bell housing that supports the end of the starter shaft.... Worn bushing can result in starter drag and poor tooth contact between starter gear and flywheel...!!!!!! (rebuilts typically come with a bushing)
The blond says that before he asks tell him that threading/screwing a tap into the old bushing will make it easy to yank out....Wise girl !!!

Richard

Vincent Waldon · Post by **Vincent Waldon** » Tue Oct 30, 2007 10:28 am

All the Bosch starters I've ever bought come with a big pink label: "WARNING: Starter Warranty VOID if bushing is not replaced"

They appear to take this particular part seriously...

Vince

vwkook · Post by **vwkook** » Wed Oct 31, 2007 10:53 am

Got it all figured out. Sorry for asking stupid questions. For some reason I didn't think the Bentley showed and exploded view of the starter. (The electrical section and automatic transmission chapters are the only ones that don't have any grease on them

)

MPalm · Post by **MPalm** » Wed Nov 28, 2007 11:16 am

What kind of grease should I use for the bushing? The kind I happen to have on the shelf?

We had -10C in the morning today and my new truck cranked pretty slowly, it fired up in less than a full turn so no problems there. Yet.
I have replaced the battery (seen on pictures posted in "bought a new car"-thread) to a 68Ah, but IÂ´d like it to crank a little faster, I donÂ´t think itÂ´s fast enough as it is when temperatures drop to -25C...

surfcam · Post by **surfcam** » Wed Nov 28, 2007 10:00 pm

I would recommend using a little better quality grease. I've stayed away from the cheap wax based greases. They tend to oxidize, evaporate, have poor film retention and are just not as slippery. I've used AP5 from jet-lube found it worked real well. They also have an Arctic grease as well if your operating below -18C alot. The AP5 has molybdenum disulfide (MoS2) which is a friction reducer. Under the microscope its almost like ball bearing. We started using it on ball joints and tie rods. They would last 2/3 longer. Then we put it into the packing on pump jacks. We got half as many oil spills. There probably other good quality grease out there as well but I just stay away from the cheap stuff.