OIl Pump Failure!

VanagonExpress · Post by **VanagonExpress** » Tue Oct 30, 2007 9:20 am

The 1600 in line is a tough motor....

My Vanagon diesels would agree....even at 160K a still pushing.

Let us know if you need parts, we all might consider it an early Christmas

surfcam · Post by **surfcam** » Tue Oct 30, 2007 12:27 pm

I just recently had the release valve on my 3.9 Cummins stick part way closed. I was worried my oil filter might blow off. When I took it apart it had some galling on it. A little work with some emery and now it stays right around 60psi. I haven't heard that VW are pronged to this but they are mechanical parts and it wouldn't hurt to check the valve over for any sighs of jamming.

mac.man25 · Post by **mac.man25** » Tue Oct 30, 2007 1:23 pm

That's what I hear about the 1.6L Diesels. Also, this engine has about 200,000 miles on it already, so that wear also has to be taken into account.

I was thinking of getting an oil pressure gauge to install in this car so i can get a closer look at the oil pressure so I can know --really know-- what's going on. Is this a good idea/bad idea? and what would you recommend for this car?

Wow! Thanks for all the help guys! As far as parts, I think I am all set for now. I'll let you know if I need anything, but I think I am all set.

VanagonExpress · Post by **VanagonExpress** » Tue Oct 30, 2007 1:23 pm

One of my Vanagon diesels used to blow a filter gasket in the mornings if you were not watching things

Made a mess of things

Probably had 140 lbs of oil pressure but what blew was the gasket between the filter and the housing

Dropped the pan, swapped it out with a new high flow oil pump.

Sits at 60lbs at 4000 rpms and 30 at an idle

82vdub · Post by **82vdub** » Tue Oct 30, 2007 1:36 pm

One of my Vanagon diesels used to blow a filter gasket in the mornings if you were not watching things

I'm sorry in advance, but I just have to ask. How would have watching things prevented the gasket failure

Sorry, I just had to dish some out this am

mac.man25 · Post by **mac.man25** » Sat Nov 10, 2007 2:05 am

So tomorrow around noon (Hopefully after the MN sun has warmed some of the semi-frozen tundra) I am going out to drop the oil pan and replace the oil pump, and the main and rod bearings. (My friend (who got me into VWs) told me about a method of replacing the main bearings without dropping the crank. I am going to attempt this tomorrow.)

So my question is: How do I make sure that the Oil pump is primed? What do I have to do for that in this car?

Also, what are the torque specs on the crank, rod and cam bearing caps? (Don't have my book with me at school...)

Cullen

tawney · Post by **tawney** » Sat Nov 10, 2007 11:25 am

From the Bentley manual: Main bearing caps: 48 ft lbs. Rod caps: 33 ft lbs. Cam caps: 15 ft lbs.

Priming the pump, and lubricating everything else before start-up: remove the vacuum pump, insert a rod with a slot on the end of it wide enough to fit over the end of the oil pump shaft and turn it with a drill. Spin it till you see oil up in the head. (You can take a piece of 1/2 rod or long bolt and cut the slot in the end, or I think a 13 mm socket will work; just don't drop the socket off the end of the extension into the motor.) When re-installing the vacuum pump just make sure that it re-engages with the oil pump shaft properly, or you'll be back to square one. (The vacuum pump is driven by a gear which meshes with the intermediate shaft, and the oil pump is driven by the slot on the bottom end of the vacuum pump.)

Hope it all goes well for you.

Steve

Vincent Waldon · Post by **Vincent Waldon** » Sat Nov 10, 2007 12:08 pm

mac.man25 wrote:So tomorrow around noon (Hopefully after the MN sun has warmed some of the semi-frozen tundra) I am going out to drop the oil pan and replace the oil pump, and the main and rod bearings. (My friend (who got me into VWs) told me about a method of replacing the main bearings without dropping the crank. I am going to attempt this tomorrow.)

You'll find this an amazingly easy job... with two "special" tools:

#1: grab an old screwdriver and grind the tip down a bit so that you have about a 1/8" flat on the blade. This becomes the perfect tool to place on the non-flanged part of the bearing and tap with your hand... the bearing will then begin to rotate out.

#2: head to a hardware store and buy a cheap plastic putty knife. Using tough scissors or tin snipes cut down both sides until you have a putty knife that's slightly narrower than the width of your new bearings. Tap this in with your hand on the side where you started to rotate the bearing and it will push the bearings the rest of the way without scratching the crank.

I use screwdriver #1 to ensure the new bearing halves are inserted exactly flush.... again tapping gently with my hand to ensure they are perfect.

Just my 0.02 worth...

Vince

mac.man25 · Post by **mac.man25** » Sun Nov 11, 2007 7:12 pm

Ok, so yesterday all went as planned when replacing oil pump (I hope)

I took off one lower bearing and it didn't look bad enough to replace in the cold. (If I had a warm garage, maybe the story would be different. I'll probably do it soon.)

I had a magnet and went through the oil looking for metal flecks. Very very little were found. I went through the oil many times and the most I came up with was probably 5 flecks that I could feel.

So post coma diagnosis? The plastic oil baffle exploded and got shredded in the motor, eventually a big glob of it got stuck in the oil pickup. Slightly frustrating.

So I had a problem today when i went out to prime the pump, I couldn't get the stupid 13mm bolt off to get the vacuum pump off. Great. Would this bolt get harder to put on if I didn't get the oil pump driver(for lack of a better term) in the slot? I seem to remember a surprisingly little amount of thread being used before it started getting tight.

Anyhow, if there is any confusion about what bolt I'm talking about here are pics:

Where we are in the engine....

That stupid bolt.

Thanks again!

rallydiesel · Post by **rallydiesel** » Sun Nov 11, 2007 7:19 pm

I am running 5W30 dino after my rebuild and oil pressure is less than 10 PSI. My pump is within spec and intermediate bearings are new. I'm just saying these cars are very sensitive to oil viscosity. With that said, I just bought a new 36mm oil pump and will run 0W40 synthetic. Better to play it safe when it comes to the lifeblood of the engine.

libbybapa · Post by **libbybapa** » Sun Nov 11, 2007 7:44 pm

That bolt would not get harder to turn if the pump were not in the slot. That being said, if the pump shaft is in the slot then the pump will easily slide all the way until it is flat against the block. The bolts should thread all the way in until they are touching the pump without any significant resistance. If you are not sure you got the pump shaft meshed with the vacuum pump then you should redo it and make sure.

All of the metals in the bearings are non-magnetic, so it is no surprise that you didn't find much and doesn't indicate anything at all with regard to bearing condition.

Andrew

tawney · Post by **tawney** » Sun Nov 11, 2007 7:46 pm

So I had a problem today when i went out to prime the pump, I couldn't get the stupid 13mm bolt off to get the vacuum pump off. Great. Would this bolt get harder to put on if I didn't get the oil pump driver(for lack of a better term) in the slot? I seem to remember a surprisingly little amount of thread being used before it started getting tight.

I'm a little confused: Maybe you meant, "Would this bolt get harder to take off if I didn't get the oil pump driver in the slot?"

I doubt it would make the bolt harder to remove, but it is possible the two pump shafts are not properly meshed together, and it's essential that they fit together properly. The way the bolt on the vacuum pump is tucked up under the body of the pump it's just hard to get to, and it's probably been there forever so it's going to be stubborn. Can you get a longer wrench in there?

mac.man25 · Post by **mac.man25** » Sun Nov 11, 2007 7:47 pm

rallydiesel wrote:I am running 5W30 dino after my rebuild and oil pressure is less than 10 PSI. My pump is within spec and intermediate bearings are new. I'm just saying these cars are very sensitive to oil viscosity. With that said, I just bought a new 36mm oil pump and will run 0W40 synthetic. Better to play it safe when it comes to the lifeblood of the engine.

So you're suggesting I should pull the pan again and make sure that the slot is in correctly? Or what? I guess I'm kinda confused by this post....

rallydiesel · Post by **rallydiesel** » Sun Nov 11, 2007 7:54 pm

I don't see how you know it is the oil pump when you aren't even running a pressure gauge. The oil pump may be fine but just running on the borderline of gear lash. Have you tried increasing your oil viscosity? My neighbour gets next to no oil pressure in his 1.6TD yet the head is well supplied with oil.

What I am saying is try running a higher viscosity oil and see if that fixes your oil buzzer problem. This is a very common issue on gas A2's. Is your head completely dry or is it still getting oil?

*EDIT- nevermind, I see you already replaced your pump.

mac.man25 · Post by **mac.man25** » Sun Nov 11, 2007 8:01 pm

tawney wrote:
Would this bolt get harder to put on if I didn't get the oil pump driver(for lack of a better term) in the slot?
I'm a little confused: Maybe you meant, "Would this bolt get harder to take off if I didn't get the oil pump driver in the slot?"

Yea, take off is what I meant.... Sorry.

tawney wrote:I doubt it would make the bolt harder to remove, but it is possible the two pump shafts are not properly meshed together, and it's essential that they fit together properly. The way the bolt on the vacuum pump is tucked up under the body of the pump it's just hard to get to, and it's probably been there forever so it's going to be stubborn. Can you get a longer wrench in there?

The wrench I put on there is the longest one that will fit, it's about an inch away from the radiator fan when on. I thought about trying to use the box end ratchet adapters, but I don't have any...

If the pumps aren't meshed, then when I take the vacuum pump off the oil pump would become loose (I can't believe I didn't just put my fingers up there to see if it was flush. Oh well, live and learn.) and then I would be able to move it and know it wasn't on properly. Would I be able to stick my hand far enough into the engine by removing the vacuum pump to check in the oil pump is flush to the block?

In either case I should remove the pan again and make sure. Maybe tomorrow. At this point I've spent a lot of my weekend and I haven't made much progress on homework. So that has to become priority for the next couple days.