Broken I/P mount?

[Tac]

1991 1.6 ME Jetta.
Has anyone had a cracked or broken injection pump mount? I had cylinder #2 fuel line brake twice. The dealer said that they would warranty it this time but not the next time, because it's caused by a broken injection pump mount and they added thats it's always #2 fuel line that brakes. I haven't been able to check the bottom part of the mount yet, but did look at the top two spots on the pump and didn't see any cracks. I had the car towed to where I work and didn't have a drop light/flash light to see under there (or tools).
Tom

[82vdub]

I'd suggest you make sure ALL IP bolts are present and tight. If your IP is loose, the telltale sign is that the #2 line will break. Went through two lines until I discovered a missing nut and bolt from the back (drivers side) of the pump. Installed new nut and bolt and no more line breakages. I'd check this first.

[Tac]

This morning on the way to work I gathered up some tools to check the bolts. May even take them out and put locktight and lock washers on them. It start to get dark around 4:30PM here. (New England) So that depends how much I'll get done. Tomorow I'll Have the fuel line. So I'll bring an extention cord and drop light to work.
Thanks 82vdub.
Tom

[82vdub]

On my IP, I replaced my missing drivers side nut/bolt combo with a grade 8 bolt from my stash of bolts around the house. I always loctite that assembly together, but I don't loctite any of the other IP bolts. But, you can probably loctite all them.

[Tac]

82vdub, How long ago has it been since you replaced your missing bolt? I'm kind of scared that this is going to happen again. I had to get towed back from NY. Thank goodness for AAA. 1st 100miles is free. Thats why I had it towed to were I work(less than 100/M).

Tom

[82vdub]

I replaced the missing bolt sometime before this spring. It may have been the previous year (2006) or the year before that (2005). I can't remember. I have 10k miles on it since this spring and that bolt has never come loose. I also have a loctited bolt holding my top timing cover on the car and that bolt is not tightened down either. If I tightened it more, it would bend the metal, so it's loctited. Even without the nut being torqued down, the nut has never loosened. I'm using loctite blue - medium strength.

[Tac]

Does anyone know where I can buy the steel fuel lines besides the dealer (Jack is out of stock)? They are about $80.00 from the dealer (I bought one). I also had a idea to cut the steel line about 3-4 inches up from the flare and try to put some of that stainless steel braided line with high presser fittings. Sometimes you see them installed on race cars. Has anyone tried this?

Tom

[82vdub]

I've seen the injection lines for sale on that popular auction site for fairly cheap. You can check there.

try to put some of that stainless steel braided line with high presser fittings

These lines have about 1500+ PSI of pressure in them. I don't know if you can use a standard line with hose clamps to fix a line. I think you'd need high pressure hydraulic hose with screwed fittings. Be very careful if you do this. If you get diesel fuel sprayed into your skin, the proper procedure to remove the diesel fuel is to cut off the injected area. 1500+ PSI is very dangerous to mess with.

[Tac]

Thanks 82vdub. That was my next question, how much psi is in that line. I was thinking more like a line that's flexible with the steel braid. It has a hex fitting that goes over the steel fuel line with the flare. Than you put on the flexible fuel line and than you slide down the hex that's already on the line and screw it over the flexible line. Kind of hard to explain and I don't know if it's really practical for this type of use. There is a hydraulic hose maker a little ways from here. When I get my car fixed I'm going over to see if he can suggest something. Thanks 1500+PSI and be very careful.
Tom

[82vdub]

I'm not quite following what you're describing for a flexible line, but I wanted to comment that the standard braided lines (like for fuel lines on a hotrod) likely won't have the rating required for the psi's that the injection lines run at. I'm also not sure if the flare you're talking about is on this line you want to use, or on the steel injector line. If you look at the existing steel injector line, it's a thick walled line. It's not something that you can just flare like standard steel brake or fuel lines. It's way stronger than that.

If you bring in an old line to the hydraulic line maker, maybe they can match the end fittings and make a hose for you.

[Tac]

Thanks, your probably right. Thats line what I was thinking about. I was thinking about cutting the VW line and using the same flare. But before I end up ruining a good line I need to talk to some one at that hydraulic shop to see if it's practical to do this. Or if they can take the flare and make me one. That's probably why VW used a steel line. Thanks 82vdub, Tom

[82vdub]

I was thinking about cutting the VW line and using the same flare

The problem with using the "same flare" is that you do not have a flare on the flexible side of the hard line to connect your new flexible hose to. That would have to be some type of crimped or hose clamped connection. The other end of the flare (that connects to the injector and IP) are fine, but it's the other side that I think you'll have the issue with. You're dealing with significant pressures in this line. Simply slipping a flexible hose over a hard line and screw clamping it down is likely not going to work. I think you'd need an engineered line that capable of working with the pressures that this sytem develops, and is rated for fuel.

By the way, did you find if you had loose or missing bolts or if your IP bracket was cracked?

[Tac]

That's a good idea maybe he can make the whole hose, flares and all. They would have to take into consideration where the 1st bends are so it would fit right. I checked the top two bolts on the IP but not the bottom one yet. They seem tight enough. I did put a socket on them and gave them a little more, but I'm afraid it'll break. I did put the new line in at lunch time today. I'll check the bottom one tonight when I finish up putting on the clamps.

Tom

[surfcam]

I think replacing the high pressure steel lines with flexible lines would be a disaster. When your going down the highway at 3000rpm the lines would be pulsing at 12000 times a minute. They would at rub and probably fail in a short period. You would have to have so many supports on the them to stop them from rubbing so you my swell stick to the steel lines. The steel lines are also engineered for the pump. Theirs a pulsing that goes on in the lines that is taken in consideration of pump settings. Flexible lines would interfere with this and require a change in the settings. I wouldn't want to tell anybody what to do but that's what I think.

[82vdub]

Dont' forget about the bolt that's behind the timing cover accessed through the pully.

I think the flexible line is for temporary - right?