Using camshaft looking tool

Quantum-man · Post by **Quantum-man** » Fri Sep 07, 2007 10:40 am

I always use feeler gauges... not the tips but fill the entire slot. Does it need to be so accurate? Well at least you always have a good reference point to compare with any adjustments that may be done in the future including minor adjustment of the cam using 2 sets of gauges and different # of blades...

3Bunnys · Post by **3Bunnys** » Mon Sep 10, 2007 11:21 am

How accurate does Cam setting need to be.... considering I'm using my eyeball to get TDC for the crank, I consider a door hinge and some feeler gauges good enough locking device.....
Richard

A1-2-A3 · Post by **A1-2-A3** » Mon Sep 10, 2007 3:35 pm

I would say that is accurate enough. Probbaly within a couple of degrees either way is still all good. You could probbaly eyeball the cam as well and call it good but it has a tendency to turn when messing with the belt and might end up a PITA. Much easier to put in your hinge, flatbar, wood block...whatever you have to hold it in place. IP sproket is a little mor tricky to eyeball, I shove in my 5/8" bolt. actuall tools? I would not mind a dial gauge someday to set timing to the book..

Quantum-man · Post by **Quantum-man** » Mon Sep 10, 2007 4:58 pm

I agree that eyeballing will result in an operational car. I too like more power but what I'm also interested in is better economy. How do you repeat an eyeball?

A few degrees of change on a cam alters position of rpm/power curve. Certainly affects economy. My first diesel started out as 30mpg US. cam was out [as well as i/p timing] Wait where's my old notes in my 'Haynes

Ah yes cam was out by1.5 flywheel teeth.[advanced] Possibly down to PO's mechanic not being careful or doing a timing recheck on belt after belt tensioning... Pump was also 'retarded' for a TD @0.88mm. Sorting and spaceship twiddling resulted in the 52mpg US...

woodrat · Post by **woodrat** » Sun Feb 10, 2008 3:44 pm

I'll probably get spanked here for dredging up too old of a thread, but I probably also would have been spanked for not reading the old threads before posting...

Anyway, I did do that dumb thing and tried to hold the cam in place to remove the sprocket with the silly locking tool, which, as reported here, was not a particularly tight fit to begin with. I ended up breaking the cam and the tool, fortunately that was my old broken head that is going in the junk pile anyway. I finally got the cam sprocket off by grabbing the cam itself between two lobes with vise grips, not a good solution for those reusing parts.

I found nothing in the Bentley that would have told me anything about a special tool to hold the sprocket, and the 33 ft pound torque spec for the cam sprocket did not prepare me for what it actually took to loosen that nut. Which was an 18" breaker bar with another 18" pipe slipped over the end and my entire 200# frame leaning on it.

Does anybody have a picture of their tool for holding the cam sprocket? I assume I am going to need something like for reinstalling the sprocket as well. I was able to salvage the cam locking tool, and with the feeler gauges added under each side, I will be able to use it to hold the cam for timing purposes. But I would like to see the homemade tool for holding that sprocket. And yes, I did look through the homemade tool thread, and did not see what I was looking for.

Quantum-man · Post by **Quantum-man** » Sun Feb 10, 2008 4:33 pm

Take a long piece of flat bar or inch angle say 2ft long.
Cut off 4"
Drill hole in long bar 4" from one end and near end of the same long piece.
Using short piece drill similar hole in both ends.
Bolt short piece to long piece 4" down its length tight but moveable.
You should have made a letter 'Y'
Put bolts through tips of 'Y' to use a prongs to catch in cam sprocket.
Use this to hold cam [sprocket] still whilst torqueing up cam bolt.
Clean and dry taper before assembly.

woodrat · Post by **woodrat** » Sun Feb 10, 2008 4:39 pm

thanks!

That is something like I was imagining, but I wanted to hear from someone with more experience first. I'm wanting to do this job just once, and not have to buy and reinstall the same parts over and over again....

Quantum-man · Post by **Quantum-man** » Sun Feb 10, 2008 4:59 pm

woodrat wrote:thanks!

That is something like I was imagining, but I wanted to hear from someone with more experience first. I'm wanting to do this job just once, and not have to buy and reinstall the same parts over and over again....

WOT like when I recently reassembled my Quantum and then whilst gloating on the fine job I'd done; leaned on the non-installed thrust bearing

woodrat · Post by **woodrat** » Sun Feb 10, 2008 5:07 pm

yeah, like that !

Post by **Fatmobile** » Mon Feb 11, 2008 1:18 am

If i'm putting a new belt on, I always make sure to break that bolt loose with the timing belt on.
It seems to be enough to hold it, while I smack on the breaker bar.
This can stretch the belt so I only do it with a junk belt.
An impact would also probably break it loose without a holder, if it will fit there.
I have seen a tool but can't think what post.

woodrat · Post by **woodrat** » Mon Feb 11, 2008 1:41 am

Fatmobile wrote:If i'm putting a new belt on, I always make sure to break that bolt loose with the timing belt on.
It seems to be enough to hold it, while I smack on the breaker bar.
This can stretch the belt so I only do it with a junk belt.
An impact would also probably break it loose without a holder, if it will fit there.
I have seen a tool but can't think what post.

I couldn't fit my impact gun in there even after pulling the fuel filter out of the way...

and I was a dope not to have loosened it before removing the belt... doh!