intermediate shaft and water pump woes

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woodrat
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intermediate shaft and water pump woes

Post by woodrat »

I'm starting to think it would have been easier to remove the engine before working on it!

I have my new head bolted down and I had figured as long as I had it torn apart so far, I would go ahead and replace the jackshaft seal and water pump. As near as I can tell by looking, you can't take the water pump off without pulling the jackshaft pulley.. Boy, there's a good idea! Let's retime the engine and replace the timing belt every time the water pump needs replacing!

Anyway, I made one of those tools to hold the large pulleys in place while removing the 19 mm nuts that hold them on. I tried to get the jackshaft pulley off and bent the tool all out of shape, but didn't budge that nut. there is no sign that that seal or the water pump are leaking, although I suppose it will start about 500 miles after I get this thing all back together.

Is it possible to replace the water pump housing and water pump as a unit, WITHOUT removing that jackshaft pulley? Should I just make another tool, out of beefier stuff I guess, and keep after that pulley? If the engine was on the floor, dang it, I could replace that seal without messing with the pulley, but no way can I do that where it's at...

Any tricks for that pulley? Dynamite maybe?
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CoolAirVw
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Re: intermediate shaft and water pump woes

Post by CoolAirVw »

woodrat wrote: Let's retime the engine and replace the timing belt every time the water pump needs replacing!?
Actually its the other way around. Lets change the waterpump when we do the timing belt. :D
woodrat wrote: there is no sign that that seal or the water pump are leaking, although I suppose it will start about 500 miles after I get this thing all back together. ?
Your probably right there. But when the repair reaches frustration level through caution to the wind. (drop back and punt)
woodrat wrote:Is it possible to replace the water pump housing and water pump as a unit, WITHOUT removing that jackshaft pulley? ?
Yes but lots of brackets will have to come off.
woodrat wrote:Any tricks for that pulley? Dynamite maybe?
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Post by woodrat »

believe me, if I could have stuffed an impact wrench between the frame rail and that bolt, I would have!

I just redid the tool and am going to try again...
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Post by woodrat »

made the tool out of angle instead of flat stock and that did the trick...
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ahistand
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water pump

Post by ahistand »

Good job getting it off finally. Those can be a booger.
But I probably would have gone the other way and taken the alternator, (and A/C compressor, if you have one) off then the mounting bracket and just changed the whole pump. That gives you a chance to put a new O-ring in place that goes between the block and water pump. Besides lots of times the water pump housing bolts will break, usually necessitating removal of the whole pump in the end anyway.
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Post by libbybapa »

Actually the waterpump bolts almost always break. I found that the some of the pump bolts on new pumps are actually locktited together with RED LOCTITE! They can be a bear to remove when the pump is brand new... I guess the manufacturer is looking for job security... :roll: Anyway, whenever I get a new pump and housing I always remove the bolts one at a time and anti-seize them so that the next time I can save some bucks. :wink:

Andrew
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Post by woodrat »

Well, i wanted to change out the jackshaft seal, just because. And I was able to do that, finally. And I totally lucked out on the water pump. Obviously mine was changed out already not too long ago. Everything is really clean, all the bolts came out really easily; I didn't break a single one. So I cleaned up the threads and holes, slathered on the antisieze and put the whole thing back together. And I changed out the thermostat too, and those bolts were fine as well.

I did put more torque to that pulley nut than the factory specified 33 ft lbs though, when I put it back together.
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vwkook
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Post by vwkook »

I always use class 10.9 bolts when changing a water pump as well. Saves many headaches next time around.
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woodrat
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Post by woodrat »

here's the pulley tool, version 2.0:

Image

the first one had the short piece made out of flat stock and it just bent when I leaned into it.
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good thing I saw this tread...

Post by nicknack2 »

I'm putting my 1.6 td together and this post got me thinking... can the water pump be replaced w/o removing the crank pulley/gear?? I have to wait untill my new water pump comes in ... so before I go an install the crank gear/pulley... I better make sure the order they go in, I'm installing a fill water pump
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Post by 82vdub »

Everyone says that you can get the whole water pump and housing off the car in one piece. Recently doing my water pump (pulled engine for other things), I will say that it's downright nearly impossible to get the water pump housing upper bolts out (the one's behind the IP) without removing the IP. Some have said that you use some curved wrench, you can get access to those bolts. I guess the moral of my point is that if your car has AC, better change the whole thing out when you have most of it apart anyways. Especially if your engine is sitting on your garage floor for service.
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Post by libbybapa »

82vdub wrote:Everyone says that you can get the whole water pump and housing off the car in one piece. Recently doing my water pump (pulled engine for other things), I will say that it's downright nearly impossible to get the water pump housing upper bolts out (the one's behind the IP) without removing the IP. Some have said that you use some curved wrench, you can get access to those bolts.
I'm happy to say that I've done the "downright nearly impossible" and didn't find it all that hard.

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Post by woodrat »

What didn't look possible to me, was pulling the water pump without pulling the jackshaft pulley or the whole housing. I'm sure it must be possible, since the Bentley is a pretty decent service manual and it did not say I needed to pull that pullet. But there was one water pump bolt behind that pulley, that did not look easy to get at, let alone torque.

But I did manage to get the pulley off in the end, so all is well.

Tomorrow I will rebuild the injectors and set up the timing belt and put all the hoses and what not back together and hopefully I will be driving this car by Tuesday!
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Post by tylernt »

Removing the entire water pump housing all depends on if you have A/C. With A/C, it's extremely difficult unless you remove the injection pump. Without A/C, it's an easy job.
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woodrat
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Post by woodrat »

Not that I really care about AC, but yes, it seems like every car I get has it...
'92 Dodge W250 Cummins Turbo Diesel
'90 Subaru Legacy AWD wagon
'89 Jetta diesel
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http://blog.redalderranch.com
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