Previously, I thought my biggest problem were stripped 11mm head bolt threads.
I pulled the head off hoping that there were enough threads to install studs, but found worse news.
Obviously I screwed up by over tightening. I hope my stupidity will provide a good reminder or lesson on the importance of following proper procedure....
I am putting so much time and energy into this Pickup. Would it be best to just find a rebuilt short block? I have never been into a project like this so this is new to me.
chriscris ----- That problem is why Amerikan mechanics (one reason) will fuddle duddle VW diesels so often.
Will THAT ever happen to hagar ????? . NOT LIKELY.------why ? I follow the Irwin Rommel's procedure. "Fingerspitzengefuel".
Not stretch or torque.--------
hagar.
PS : I do NOT paint by number's either. ---chris do not give up --OK ?.
Here's what I would do. I'd disassemble the shortblock and see how much life is left in the pistons and crank. Then get a junkyard shortblock and do the same. Then you can assemble one good engine using the best crank and best set of pistons. New rings and bearings, and you're good to go -- as long as your "new" shortblock doesn't have worn cylinders.
If you're in to it this far, redoing a bottom end can't be much worse.
'82 Diesel Rabbit • '88 Fox (RIP) • '88 Jetta (work in progress)
I currently have an 11mm head and block. I would of course like to switch to a new 12mm block. Would my head need any machining to allow it to accept 12 mm bolts?
Yes, the bolt holes and washer recesses need to be enlarged. It has been successfully done before, however. Just make sure the bolt hole by the oil passage is big enough to easily flow oil to the camshaft.
'82 Diesel Rabbit • '88 Fox (RIP) • '88 Jetta (work in progress)
crischris hagar has a 1.6L block (engine) sitting on disecting table in the Academy lecture Hall. I only use it for giving lectures.------yours for FREE ----just bring Old block ----WOW what a sample of How Not to do it.
You can have the block ---I want to keep all the rest.
That is a bummer! I know what it feels like, having put a new german head on my jetta only to have it drop a valve head 2000 miles later and wipe out the bottom end as well. Now I need to do the whole dang engine, and find another hydraulic head again... But I do intend to get this car on the road again, even if it takes all summer long to find and afford the parts.
no, I haven't found one yet. And even when I do find one, I still have to pull the lower end and rebuild it as well, since one piston was totally ruined and it scratched up the cylinder wall as well.
I figure even doing the assembly myself, I am looking at about $1400 or so in machine work and parts.
I would love to swap blocks. I can strip mine down and make the quick trip to BC for the trade. Is your block an 11 or 12mm? Have the cylinders ever been bored out?
Last edited by chrischris on Sun May 11, 2008 4:27 pm, edited 2 times in total.
If (if if if) you could get a strong enough glue could you drop a couple of ccs down the bolt hole and screw a waxed bolt and through 'hydrolocking' force the glue into the cracks which originate in the hole???
"I'm not here to help... I'm here to Pro-Volke"
Be like meeee...Drive a Quantum TD
...The best work-horse after the cart...
Quantae grow on you...but Rabbits are like roses...
... girls like em ;o)
Only one Darwin, Einstein, Poe and Verne.
That is why if you listen, you will learn:
From the one and only Quantum-man,
Who sees the worms from outside of the can.
7 Quantae in 20 years; 4 dead and 3 TD's still alive [2 wagons & 1 fastback] oh and a GTD )
If (if if if) you could get a strong enough glue could you drop a couple of ccs down the bolt hole and screw a waxed bolt and through 'hydrolocking' force the glue into the cracks which originate in the hole??? 
)