Head gasket blown; options

[bwv]

I started developing steam out the tailpipe the other day; noticed a loss of coolant in the overflow bottle. No oil in the coolant, however. Car has 174k miles, gets 51 mpg, runs warm, good acceleration, no hesitation, but I obviously have a big problem. Because of my real life demands (work, kids, etc.), I had to buy another car.

I love the Golf, and it would break my heart to sell it (although for the right price I might, especially if it was going to a good home) or cannibalize it for parts. I am thinking of doing the repair myself eventually, maybe when the weather warms up. Until then, I have to figure out what to do with it. Space is not a problem, but it will have to live outside (versus in the garage). Should I put it upon on blocks? Siphon out the diesel? It might be a few months before I get to it.

I know others here have had this problem, and I am wondering what you did.

thanks

[bscutt]

174K is low miles in my book. I have heard that the ultra low sulfer diesel doesn't last as well as the old stuff so it would be a good idea to put some sta-bil in there. I'm pretty sure it's good for diesel too but check the bottle.

If you use it run the engine for a bit to get it circulated up into the pump. The head gasket fix isn't too bad to do, it can be done in a day. Get new head bolts and I personally recommend the FELPRO no-retorque head gasket. It doesn't preclude retorquing even though I never did and have put over 10K on mine with absolutely no problems. It does have some goodies for keeeping oil and water passages sealed up nicely. A friend has over 100K on the felpro gasket in one of his Rabbits and swears by them.

I don't know where you are located but the weather here gets pretty good for outside car work but April or so (doesn't stop me in January though...) so you won't be parked for too long.

If you can keep in on a paved surface that will help keep the undercarriage dry but raising it up will help and if you can get a car cover on it that would also be a good idea, especially if you have any of the traditional VW leaks. My 79 and 82 both have ventshades on them so I can leave the windows slightly open to help keep the interior ventilated, especially on the 79 which is not on the road.

[bwv]

Bob, this is the kind of advice I was looking for. I agree, 174 is nothing. The body has no rust, and structurally everything is quite sound. I am going to assume that the head will need only to be milled, hopefully not replaced because of a crack. I'd invest in a reman head if necessary. The gasket info is very helpful. I'm in Maryland, by the way.

One question: with the head off the the block exposed, I'd imagine I'd need to coat the exposed metal with oil or vaseline, right?

Thanks again.

[wvveedub]

Having just done the head gasket on my 90 Jetta (after sitting for a bit over a year), It wasn't too bad. The timing was the worst part of the job.

A few recommendations:

1. The exhaust clamps are a pain. Buy a 2 1/2" universal exhaust clamp to get them back on. (see this <a href=http://www.4crawler.com/Diesel/CheapTri ... ol>site</a> for details.)

2. Get 2 short studs (or cut down the old head bolts) to help you line it up. Cut a slot in the top and you can use a screwdriver to loosen them once you have the other bolts in place, then lift them out with a magnetic tool.

3. Watch out for the wire that goes to the oil sensor at the top of the head (driver's side). I wasn't paying attention and wound up getting it between the head and the gasket. I didn't realize it until I was almost done and had to do it all over again.

4. If you don't have the special 6 point bit to loosen the head bolts, you might have a T55 torx bit laying around. It's a perfect fit.

BTW - Where in Maryland? I'm less than 30 minutes from Hagerstown.

[bwv]

Wow, great information, thanks wvveedub. I'm about 25 minutes south of Hagerstown via 270.

[bscutt]

As far as milling the head, it's not recommended. I suggest taking it to a good machine shop and have them inspect it for cracks, flatness, and overall condition. small cracks between the valves is ok but not all machinists know that. Milling these heads can be a problem for a number of reasons including knocking out the prechamber inserts. It also brings the valves closer to the pistons which can be disasterous if not compensated for with a thicker head gasket.

Chances are it just needs a good cleaning and a new high-quality gasket. Mine had no coolant leak, just an annoying oil leak down the front of the block, so I just cleaned the head throughly and the block too. I also ran a 12 X 1.5mm tap into all the head bolt holes and cleaned them all out to make sure there was no oil or water in them that could crack the block when you put the bolts back in. I also use a bit of anti-seize on the new head bolts to make sure they go in smoothly and to make sure the torque you are applying is accurate. And you can't be overly clean during this operation. I clean the block and head mating surfaces with Brakleen or equivalent before assembly, wiping repeatedly until the cloth comes up clean.

BTW if the head is warped more than the spec (.004 inches if I recall) the best bet is replacement. Machining the head properly can be pretty expensive since it also requires align-boring the cam bearings too if I remember correctly. I think Fatmobile had some comments on this somewhere in past postings too.

With all that said, it's not as bad as it may sound. I did mine over a two-day period to force myself not to rush it and to make sure everything was prepped properly. It's a lso a goodd time to change timing belt and tensioner while you're in there. Maybe even a water pump (mine just started leaking :~( )

[82vdub]

Maybe even a water pump

If you're this far into the engine, change the waterpump without even thinking about it. Start fresh.

[surfcam]

I believe there are head rebuilders that can straighten the head out. Its a bit of a black act. I've straightened pump lids out on 50 ton press. As long as the warp is real gradual its not to bad. But if it warped in a small area it can be tough to get out. Some companies will even anneal or normalize to kill the warp memory.

[Quantum-man]

I started developing steam out the tailpipe the other day; noticed a loss of coolant in the overflow bottle. No oil in the coolant, however. Car has 174k miles, gets 51 mpg, runs warm, good acceleration, no hesitation, but I obviously have a big problem. Because of my real life demands (work, kids, etc.), I had to buy another car.

I love the Golf, and it would break my heart to sell it (although for the right price I might, especially if it was going to a good home) or cannibalize it for parts. I am thinking of doing the repair myself eventually, maybe when the weather warms up. Until then, I have to figure out what to do with it. Space is not a problem, but it will have to live outside (versus in the garage). Should I put it upon on blocks? Siphon out the diesel? It might be a few months before I get to it.

I know others here have had this problem, and I am wondering what you did.

thanks

So that's it then 'done and dusted'... Why has everyone just assumed that the head gasket has gone? If I was you I'd do some tests first before you talk yourself into unneccessary work. Do some checks first. How clean is the coolant? valves in cap could be duff or a leak elsewhere...

[bwv]

Thanks. I am assuming it is the head gasket for the following reason:

As soon as I start her up, pressure starts to build in the overflow reservoir. In fact, if I remove the cap, a cloud of steam comes out. This is only seconds after I start her (after she has been sitting for days).

I am coming to the conclusion that I am not going to have time to fix the head gasket.

Anybody here interested in purchasing the car? If so I will look for the title.

[Quantum-man]

It does sound like a headgasket
The thing is with that economy and the added value if you decide to sell it anyway if you can get it fixed.
If you are short of time why not wip the head off and inspect the gasket. Sometimes it is clear that the gasket has failed in one spot due to corrosion. for $30 or so you can get a new gasket and assuming you don't see anything nasty just stick the new gasket on. It may well hold. I have my doubts about some head warping. Can't see why torquing down won't unwarp it to mate back up with block via gasket.
Corroded ruts are another problem..
Nothing to lose and everything to win


I bet if you take a scrap head; place it on a spare block; put a steel ruler across the block at #12 and #11 bolt holes and take another ruler and rest it at #1 and #2 holes next take 4 bolts for the centre holes and torque them up to spec
I think you'll lose 1/16" easily.
Which will demonstrate warped heads thrown out at 4 thou or whatever is TOSH

[ajt3nc]

Instead of milling a head, does anyone alse bake them flat ?

[Quantum-man]

Instead of milling a head, does anyone alse bake them flat ?

Farmer Joe up in Canada IIRC

[Fatmobile]

Yeah, there's a place here in Iowa that heats them while bending them straight,... then line bores them.

[Quantum-man]

Yeah, there's a place here in Iowa that heats them while bending them straight,... then line bores them.

This sounds like a caring establishment; however there's something I can't quite sort out in my mind; how come if a head warps and then you straighten it then the cam bearings are out of line?
Surely head warped then machined then it's out of sync?
Or is a warped head a melted and reformed head?

Does a head warp whilst still bolted down? If so why would a metal gasket make much difference?


How many people take a head off and then measure it find 'warp' and then just bolt back on with a new gasket and have no bother?