That's just my type of luck...

Infinitrium · Post by **Infinitrium** » Tue Jul 15, 2008 6:20 pm

The water return line just shoots a jet of air, every so often it will spit a little water. I've had it idling at 190 F for 15 minutes and that little hose still just spits a little water. When I turn the heater on, I do get heat but not as much as there should be.

Quantum-man · Post by **Quantum-man** » Tue Jul 15, 2008 7:43 pm

You need more water in the system

jason · Post by **jason** » Tue Jul 15, 2008 8:40 pm

I've used a device which sucks air from the coolant reservoir and bubbles it through a solution which changes color in the presence of hydrocarbons from combustion leaks in a gas engine, maybe it would work on a diesel too.

Here is a link to a military manual describing the procedure: http://www.tpub.com/content/constructio ... 64_227.htm

Jason

Infinitrium · Post by **Infinitrium** » Tue Jul 15, 2008 9:50 pm

How much more water will it take? I filled the level in the coolant bottle to the max mark and it didn't seem like it would take any more. Wouldn't an air bubble, possibly caused by a cracked head or headgasket, cause that?

82vdub · Post by **82vdub** » Tue Jul 15, 2008 10:47 pm

Most people (including myself) are saying it sounds like you have a water flow problem and have been saying this for a few posts. Likely the water pump, but could be something else. If you never get anything but a squirt of water out of the small hose going to the coolant jug, the small line is clear without restrictions, and you have best determined that you don't have a large bubble somewhere in your system, it's likely time to get a waterpump and change the pump. This is especially evident with a cold radiator and a no heat coming out of the heater. IMO, You do NOT have water flowing in your cooling system.

Post by **Fatmobile** » Tue Jul 15, 2008 11:03 pm

Yeah, there should be a flow coming into the resevoir.
Sometimes steady, sometimes not,... but there should be some flow if that line is clear of restrictions.
Fine at idle but hot at RPMs is also a bad waterpump thing.
Pull the thermostat and put a screwdriver against the waterpump vanes, turn the pully or try to turn the vanes,... see if they turn together.

Infinitrium · Post by **Infinitrium** » Fri Jul 18, 2008 1:30 am

How do you remove the water pump? I had my dad helping me today, us both trying to remove the pump but we couldn't, seems there's another few bolts left hiding somewhere. I figure once I get it removed I'd split the two halves of the pump and see if the impeller is corroded up bad or something like that.

Post by **Fatmobile** » Fri Jul 18, 2008 3:15 am

Best to remove the alternator bracket,... but if you can't get to the top 2 bolts with an "S" wrench, you'll have to remove the injection pump.
Sorry for the bad news.

bscutt · Post by **bscutt** » Fri Jul 18, 2008 6:34 am

Trust me if you get to the point where you cen get the waterpump out, replace it. It's worth the cost. If you have A/C you will need to remove the injection pump, alternator, A/C compressor, then the big cast iron mounting bracket and then the water pump is easy to get to. Haven't pulled one out for a non-A/C car but it has to be a little easier.

Quantum-man · Post by **Quantum-man** » Fri Jul 18, 2008 6:43 am

Fatmobile wrote:Yeah, there should be a flow coming into the resevoir.
Sometimes steady, sometimes not,... but there should be some flow if that line is clear of restrictions.
Fine at idle but hot at RPMs is also a bad waterpump thing.
Pull the thermostat and put a screwdriver against the waterpump vanes, turn the pully or try to turn the vanes,... see if they turn together.

I second what 'Fats'. says...
I assume that you can see the blades wth a torch or something I assume you now have the fan belt off so you are free to spin the pump also. If a water pump is hard to locate [doubt it as it's the same as the gasser ones], then if it's not leaking a clean up might do it ifit's obviously crudded up.
[I was wondering why you'd gone quiet ]

82vdub · Post by **82vdub** » Fri Jul 18, 2008 8:54 am

You're probably going to have to get the water pump and it's housing off the car in one assembly. There are bolts under the IP that bolt through the WP housing holding the assembly to the car. You can replace just the water pump leaving the housing on the car, but I have never done it that way. You may also find that when you try to remove the water pump bolts, they break off in the housing. Best to get a new waterpump, housing, and go get yourself some stainless steel bolts and some antisieze for your project. Use the antisieze on anything you screw into aluminum and the stainless steel bolts will make sure that next time you do this project, you won't have to purchase a waterpump housing.

Infinitrium · Post by **Infinitrium** » Fri Jul 18, 2008 1:54 pm

Fatmobile wrote:Best to remove the alternator bracket,... but if you can't get to the top 2 bolts with an "S" wrench, you'll have to remove the injection pump.
Sorry for the bad news.

Well that's just dandy. Would a flexible joint socket thing help any? If I have to remove the injection pump then the car won't be going back on the road for a good while..

Post by **Fatmobile** » Fri Jul 18, 2008 2:12 pm

You'll have to try tools to see if you can get to the top 2 bolts.
Tape the belt to the cam sprocket and I-shaft pully and mark the injection pump sprocket and belt.

A 15mm for the tensioner nut (probably can get by without loosening it). A 19mm for the IP sprocket nut (loosened not removed at this point) couple screwdrivers to remove the IP sprocket (slid in under the sprocket, one 180 degrees from the other,... POP), 4, 13mm bolts, 4, 17mm injector lines.

82vdub · Post by **82vdub** » Fri Jul 18, 2008 2:28 pm

Fatmobile wrote:Tape the belt to the cam sprocket and I-shaft pully and mark the injection pump sprocket and belt.

This is a very important point that should be done when you're messing with the timing belt. First job I did I marked the belt and sprockets, transferred the marks to the new belt, and only afterwards did I find out that my flywheel was off by 120 degrees and it wouldn't go back togher (crank had moved after belt was removed) according to the book. Was wise that I had marks on the equipment to be able to put it back together.

dexev · Post by **dexev** » Fri Jul 18, 2008 3:38 pm

And put socket-head (allen) bolts for the two bolts under the IP when you're putting everything back together.

Then you'll be able to remove your A/C + water pump without removing the IP next time.