When do I need a new tension pulley?

[Berger]

Hello everybody!

I am new to this forum and can't beleive there is one dedicated to diesel VWs! Life is good! Last January I bought a 82 diesel Westy (Amber) stock 1.6na and have been working on her since. My current project is installing a new IP. I figured while I am doing that I might as well replace the timing belt. Here are my questions: Are you supposed to change the tension pulley everytime you change the belt? It seems to be working fine now, does it really need to be changed? What are the signs that it does and do I really need that special tool to adjust the tension? Any tips would be most appreciated.

Thanks,
Mike

[coke]

Its a very good idea to change it, and use only OEM parts. Cheap china parts lead to 15k~ less failures.

If you have a small jewlers screwdriver, you can insert it in one of the holes, and pry upwards on it with a flat tip screw driver to adjust tension. It works seemingly well, but does take a little bit of practice, and you have to make sure you leave the 15mm nut semi-tight on the stud so the tension will hold after you release pressure so you can tighten the nut.

Or you can buy the tool from this website to do it.

[Berger]

Thanks Coke,

I ordered a new tension pulley from this site along with everything else I needed. Thank you for the info you gave me. I made my own tensioning tool out of a small block of wood and 2 nails, seems to work fine. Now if I could just figure out a way to take off the IP sprocket without that special puller....

[libbybapa]

Loosen sprocket nut a few turns, tap two chisels between pulley and bracket 180° out, place a drift in the center of the shaft and give it a decent tap with a mini-sledge. Works for me 99% of the time.

Andrew

[Berger]

Thank you Libbybapa and Coke for your info on installing the injector pump. I got it installed and it seems to be running fine, except for one problem: Now one of my injectors is bubbling diesel out where it threads into the engine. Do I need a new injector or is this a bigger problem like compression? Any info would be greatly appreciated.

thanks,

Mike

[Josh]

Doesn't sound good! Hopefully since it's been a while since you posted, all is well and it was a simple fix. if not,

I'd get yourself a few new heat shields, and make sure you know the proper orientation in which to install them. Then take out the suspect injector, and inspect it's threads, and the threads in the block. Clean them up a bit. Perhaps you'll be fortunate, and it's just an instance of the previous owner forgetting to properly torque the injector to spec.

Re-install the injector with a new heat shield, and torque to spec (51 ft lbs). The lines torque to 18 ft lbs, by the way. If it still leaks, and you had signs of some thread problems on the block, you'll likely need to work on the hole. If you're lucky and it was just the injector that looked funky, replace it. and whilst you're at it, might as well remove the other 3 and bump up the opening pressure if you're still running SVO. Also consider installing some of those electrical heating elements onto the piping of the injectors. I think it's good insurance, especially in the winter!

-Josh

[82Caddy]

Like these?

[Josh]

That looks like the idea, caddy!

[82Caddy]

Speaking of timing belts. I went to change mine today and cannot find the timing mark on the clutch plate/ flywheel. The marks on the pump and cam pulley's are there and lined up but I have nothing to go by on the crank. I would have been nice to mark it before removing the belt but it's too late now. Any ideas?
Oh, the heaters are from Fattywagons.