Yes, this is a spare pump for my educational purposes before I attack my own (Citroen) which has the additional headache of armour plating around the added immobiliser unit fitted onto the fuel-stop solenoid and distributor head but that is another story for another day.
The numbers stamped on the pump:-
0 460 494 342
VE R 445 - 2
XUD 203
?? 465 33218
If I cross-reference the above number with Bosch online Catalogue:-
0 460 494 342
VE4/9F2250R445 - 2
For Citroen and Peugeot Vehicles
And if you're collecting numbers, I've got another one for you. It's off a Citroen Xantia MK1 and uses yet another timing control device and a throttle position sensor is fitted to the accelerator lever and shaft mechanism. The immobiliser is attached to the pump and protected with armour, concealing the Full Load Screw, much to the annoyance of tweakers like me
0 460 494 427
R 601 - 2
XUD BP 02
015 (in an oval) 668 1066656
If you know of any online databases I can crossreference other than the Bosch online catalogue, please let me know.
p.s. I finished stripping the pump YAY!! And I've got hold of another (number above) to do now. One thing I notice, other than the muck inside caused by WVO and rust, is the main shaft bushing is not a bearing.
Yes, it has both the cold-start idle control cable (which is controlled by the ECU via a vacuum-fed electrovalve), and a cold-start timing advance device - again controlled by the ECU via an attached solenoid bolted onto the timing housing.
So I'm slowly rebuilding the pump, trying to be as careful and thoughtful as I can and notice there's a tiny hole in the control collar. It leads to the larger hole which the governor lever slips into. But looking at the rebuild guide and comparing it with other drawings there's contradiction of which way it faces. Assuming it makes a difference, can anyone clarify please?
Thank you for confirming that, I was 99% sure because that's how I had it stored - just as it came off. Only when I checked other diagrams and photos did it seem doubtful.
DervConvert wrote:Yes, it has both the cold-start idle control cable (which is controlled by the ECU via a vacuum-fed electrovalve), and a cold-start timing advance device - again controlled by the ECU via an attached solenoid bolted onto the timing housing.
Thanks, that makes sense. Wonder why they are both wired to the shut off valve on my IP
I guess I'll run a wire to a toggle switch in the cabin for the cold-start idle contol, should I run the timing advance device from the same switch?
The ECU probably runs them both simultainiously on/off, right?
Sorry for hijacking your thread, but since both of our IP's are from non-VAG vehicles I figured I'll post my quoestions here...
Right, I'm now pleased to announce I've successfully replaced the distributor head.
After installing the governor lever assembly and it's two bolts, I fastened the pump body (pulley end downward) to enable the head to be lowered vertically from above. Next in was the plunger assembly onto the camplate, followed by the two large springs. I then hooked the governor lever ball into the control collar on the plunger and propped the lever up so they couldn't part company.
I "glued" the large spring guides/slides (with their washers/spacers) and small springs to the head using a wax/diesel mix. This allowed me to lower the head over the plunger complete with spring guides sliding inside the large springs.
Seemed a lot easier to me than the methods described in other threads though without comparing them, I can't know for sure.
MPalm: I'm afraid I haven't learnt how all these different solenoids work yet as I do know that some are pulse-width controlled, in the case of my IP on my Citroen whereas others are, as you say, like the fuel-cut solenoid - either on or off. Experiment by all means, whatever you find works best for you.
EDIT I just remembered one important aspect of these pumps with fast-idle control. The DEFAULT is fast idle and it requires the lever to be pulled to return the idle to normal! It is a common problem with these Citroens that when the fast-idle solenoid fails (and they do because they're too near the hot exhaust/turbo) the engine will constantly idle high.
I didn't hear the little spacer disc mentioned.
That's the part I worry about when I put the plunger on.
It can easily fall out of place.
Remember to put the sprocket on and turn it by hand once the head is on.
If you can't turn it something is wrong.
Got the pin on the plunger (where it locks into the cam disc)lined up with the keyway on the mainshaft? It'll be 180 out if you don't.
'91 Golf gasser converted to a 12mm pump, M-TDI.
'84 1.6TD Rabbit with a VNT-15 turbo, still setup to run on vegetable oil.
'84 GTI with 1.7TD pistons and intercooled.
2003 TDI wagon
2000 TDI Jetta.
Yes, I did take all those steps/checks and all seemed well thank you, but now something's not right with refitting the governor cover. Hard to tell why without x-ray vision so it's coming apart again for a second attempt.
EDIT Problem solved. It was fuel-cut lever. I positioned it to clear the governor spring on refitting which put it in the way of the governor lever as the cover went on.
Fatmobile said :
I didn't hear the little spacer disc mentioned.
That's the part I worry about when I put the plunger on.
It can easily fall out of place.
OK I will mention IT. , It is a very important shim , used for aligning Ports in the rotary valve , consisting of Plunger (Piston) and Distributor head ( big block of metal). . And yes they will fall out of place , get caught and break. I had to mail one to my favorite US Marine in WA..His father was a marine and he was a marine.
That is why hagar use ParoWax to hold it in place when assembling I P .
hagar.
Last edited by hagar on Sun Nov 08, 2009 11:31 am, edited 2 times in total.
I took your advice Hagar and used a wax/diesel mix as glue but found my spacer/shim is pre-magnetised and therefore holds itself firmly on the plunger. Even if I try and flick it off I can't
I've been using petroleum jelly.
It works great if I use just enough to stick it and wipe off the rest.
That way if the plunger gets moved it can be set back down without worrying about the disc sticking somewhere else.
'91 Golf gasser converted to a 12mm pump, M-TDI.
'84 1.6TD Rabbit with a VNT-15 turbo, still setup to run on vegetable oil.
'84 GTI with 1.7TD pistons and intercooled.
2003 TDI wagon
2000 TDI Jetta.
I'm pleased to say it's now all finished and up for sale as I now have a Xantia VE pump to get to know. It has electronic timing control via a solenoid that is housed under the pump and forms a T with the original timing piston housing. Oh, it also has armour bolted over the bracketry on the back as the engine immobiliser ciruit lives by the stop solenoid. In their wisdom, they made one of the distributor head bolts a security bolt where the head shears off when a certain torque is reached
but that is another story for another day.
